Here it is, the twelfth day! The grand finale! What am I going to do with myself after this? Go shopping! For food. Yeah. That’s it. Food. It’s been an interesting week and a half and I can honestly say, I’ll never do it again! At least not until next Christmas. I have a year to work it out. If I do decide to do it, I’ll try and make it more festive. Maybe. I’ll think about it.
Actually I’m more worried about what happens on the first day after Christmas. Few know (besides a few choir geeks) that there is an aftermath. There is a song that tells about what happens when she has a fight with her ‘true love’ :
On the first day after Christmas
My true love and I had a fight
And so I chopped the pear tree down
And burned it just for spite
And with a single ca-a-a-a-artridge
I shot that blasted pa-a-a-artridge
My true love gave to me
On the second day after Christmas
I pulled on the old rubber gloves
And very gently rung the necks
Of both the turtledoves
My true love gave to me
On the third day after Christmas
My mother caught the coup
I had to use the three French hens
To make some chicken soup (there’s my soup!)
The four calling birds were completely fake
For their language was obscene
The five golden rings were completely fake
For they turned my fingers green
On the sixth day after Christmas
The six laying geese wouldn’t lay
I gave the whole darn gaggle to
The ASPCA
On the seventh day what a mess I found
All seven of the swimming swans had drowned
My true love, my true love, my true love gave to me
On the eighth day after Christmas
Before they could suspect
I bundled up the -
Eight maids a’miling
Nine ladies dancing
Ten lords a’ leaping
Eleven pipers piping
Twelve drummers drumming
(Well, actually she kept one of the drummers. It has to be a drummer. It’s always the drummer…never the bass player)
And sent them back collect
I wrote my true love
“We are through, love”
And I said in so many words
“Further more your Christmas gifts were for the…birds!” (I knew it! Too much fowl!)
Funny song. Anyway. So what made me think of twelve drummers drumming? Meat Pies. Biscuits. Crumpets! Actually I thought of Crème Brule. It’s a delightful light baked custard topped with caramelized sugar. Totally reminds me of a drum. It is usually baked in small (about ½ - 1 cup) round white porcelain cups called ramekins (ram-uh-kin) in a hot water bath in the oven. They can also be baked in a square tin but then they wouldn’t be round, although I suppose you could cut rounds with a biscuit cutter but you’d have some waste. Awww…well waste not want not!
This is another Southwestern version of a French classic. Agave is a relative of the Yucca and is the main ingredient in tequila. Agave syrup is becoming increasingly more available as a healthy alternative to sugar and corn syrup. You should be able to find it in your local grocery store. If not, try a health food store like Sunflower Market or The Good Earth.
For the drumsticks I thought of tuile. Tuile is French for ‘tile’. They are thin cookies that are either laid over the bottom of an upturned glass while it’s still warm and pliable, to make a little cup, or over a rolling pin to make curved cookies that go great with ice cream. You could always use Pepperidge Farms Pirouettes.
Twelve Drummers Drumming
Agave Crème Brule with Pine Nut Tuile Drumsticks
Crème Brule :
½ C whole milk
1 pint heavy cream
½ C Agave Syrup
2 oz tequila (optional)
3 eggs, separated
In a saucepan, bring the liquids just to a boil on medium high heat. Remove from the heat and let sit until at least room temperature.
Place four round ramekins in a large casserole dish. Pour water into the casserole dish until about ¾ from the top of the ramekins. Remove the ramekins and place the water dish in the oven. Preheat the oven to 300°.
Beat the 3 egg yolks and whisk into the cooled custard mix. Pour into the ramekins and place them in the hot water bath in the oven and back until set or a toothpick in the center comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Remove carefully onto a towel on the countertop. Sprinkle a little sugar even on the top of each on. A pastry chef will have a small butane torch to caramelize the sugar and you can buy one online, but one of those lighter wands should do the trick. The sugar will bubble and turn brown when it is done.
Pine Nut Tuile Drumsticks :
1/3 C flour
½ C plus 2 T granulated sugar
Dash salt
3 egg whites (reserved from Crème Brule)
2 ½ T melted unsalted butter
½ cup toasted pine nuts, chopped fine
Milk
Sift the flour, sugar, and salt into a small mixing bowl. Add the egg whites and melted butter chopped pine nuts and whisk until just combined. Don’t over mix. Set aside and let rest for about 1 - 1 ½ hours.
Preheat oven to 350°. Place some parchment paper on a cookie sheet and grease well with butter or cooking spray. Spoon about 1 tsp of the mix onto the cookie sheet. You’ll need at least 8 drumsticks. Place them about 2 inches apart. Pour a little milk into a bowl. Dipping your finger into the milk, gently spread the batter until thin and even, about 1 inch round or so.
Bake for 5-8 minutes or until the edges are golden and the centers are beginning to brown. Remove the cookies. As soon as they are cool enough to touch, but still warm, carefully roll them into sticks. They will harden as they cool. If they start to get hard, just put them in the oven for a minute or so and they will soften up.
So there you have it. Twelve days of culinary delight! I Hope. If I’m feeling up to it, my next post just might be my Christmas menu.
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
Eleven Pipers Piping
Ah, finally an obvious day. I had no problem at all coming up with something piping, although cake decorating is out. It’s fun but not much I can do in the way of writing about it. I could’ve done cannelloni or manicotti or perhaps some stuffed giant seashell pasta. I could’ve done something more festive, like éclairs perhaps, but those are easy to mess up as my friend Lexy found out a couple months ago.
Honestly, though, I didn’t think twice about it. None of those ideas ever crossed my mind. It was always going to be cannoli. There’s only one problem. Well, two actually. I have yet to find a cannoli recipe that doesn’t require cannoli pipes to wrap the dough around. The other is the fact that I have never made cannoli before. I’ve seen it done but that’s about it.
But should that stop me? Nope. I found this recipe by Mario Batali online and I‘ve adapted it to give it my own personal Southwestern touch. Normally I’m leery of TV chefs. It’s all about keeping up appearances with them, and that can get very annoying. But anyone who roams around Spain with Gwyneth Paltrow is aces in my book!
Eleven Pipers Piping
Prickly Pear Cactus Fruit Crème Stuffed Cannoli
Shells :
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons Marsala wine (or substitute 4 T apple juice and 2 T grape juice)
Filling :
1 lbs ricotta cheese
¼ c lemon juice
1 5 oz jar Cactus Jelly
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 quarts canola oil, for frying
Powdered sugar, for dusting
To make the shells: Mix together the dry ingredients and cut in butter with 2 knives. Add the Marsala (or fruit juices) and shape the dough into a ball. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate.
Heat 2 quarts canola oil in 3 ½ quart pot to 360° - 375° F.
To make the filling : In a mixing bowl, stir together the ricotta, lemon juice and jelly until well combined. Spoon the filling into a pastry bag with an open tip, and place the bag in the refrigerator.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and divide into 4 equal pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll 1 piece onto flat surface until it measures 1/16-inch thick. Using a cookie cutter or a sharp knife, cut the dough into 4-inch circles. Using a rolling pin, elongate the circles into ovals.
Wrap the ovals lengthwise around the metal cannoli tubes (or anything similar that is sanitary and won’t melt in the oil). Using your fingertips, seal the edges shut with egg whites. Use your fingertips to flare the ends open.
Working in small batches, carefully lift the cannoli shells and place them in the hot oil. Fry the shells until golden brown on both sides, about 2 -3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, remove the finished shells to a plate lined with paper towels. Drain on paper towels as they cook.
When the shells are cool enough to touch, carefully twist the molds away from the shells. Shells may be made 1 day in advance and rest unfilled and uncovered. When ready to eat, stuff cannoli with cactus fruit crème, dust with powdered sugar.
Honestly, though, I didn’t think twice about it. None of those ideas ever crossed my mind. It was always going to be cannoli. There’s only one problem. Well, two actually. I have yet to find a cannoli recipe that doesn’t require cannoli pipes to wrap the dough around. The other is the fact that I have never made cannoli before. I’ve seen it done but that’s about it.
But should that stop me? Nope. I found this recipe by Mario Batali online and I‘ve adapted it to give it my own personal Southwestern touch. Normally I’m leery of TV chefs. It’s all about keeping up appearances with them, and that can get very annoying. But anyone who roams around Spain with Gwyneth Paltrow is aces in my book!
Eleven Pipers Piping
Prickly Pear Cactus Fruit Crème Stuffed Cannoli
Shells :
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons Marsala wine (or substitute 4 T apple juice and 2 T grape juice)
Filling :
1 lbs ricotta cheese
¼ c lemon juice
1 5 oz jar Cactus Jelly
1 egg white, lightly beaten
2 quarts canola oil, for frying
Powdered sugar, for dusting
To make the shells: Mix together the dry ingredients and cut in butter with 2 knives. Add the Marsala (or fruit juices) and shape the dough into a ball. Wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate.
Heat 2 quarts canola oil in 3 ½ quart pot to 360° - 375° F.
To make the filling : In a mixing bowl, stir together the ricotta, lemon juice and jelly until well combined. Spoon the filling into a pastry bag with an open tip, and place the bag in the refrigerator.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator and divide into 4 equal pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll 1 piece onto flat surface until it measures 1/16-inch thick. Using a cookie cutter or a sharp knife, cut the dough into 4-inch circles. Using a rolling pin, elongate the circles into ovals.
Wrap the ovals lengthwise around the metal cannoli tubes (or anything similar that is sanitary and won’t melt in the oil). Using your fingertips, seal the edges shut with egg whites. Use your fingertips to flare the ends open.
Working in small batches, carefully lift the cannoli shells and place them in the hot oil. Fry the shells until golden brown on both sides, about 2 -3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or spatula, remove the finished shells to a plate lined with paper towels. Drain on paper towels as they cook.
When the shells are cool enough to touch, carefully twist the molds away from the shells. Shells may be made 1 day in advance and rest unfilled and uncovered. When ready to eat, stuff cannoli with cactus fruit crème, dust with powdered sugar.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Ten Lords a' Leaping
This was another brain tenderizer. For the life of me I couldn’t think of anything that could represent leaping Lords. My mom thought of venison and Bambi. I thought, How cruel! No I didn’t. Actually, I thought that was a good idea. But, seeing as how many of my recipes so far have had ingredients that have proven difficult to find unless you are a hunter.
Then I saw a show on PBS and it gave me an idea. I don’t remember what kind of show it was, but I think it was a nature show about bears. The idea came to me when I saw a huge Grizzly sitting in the middle of a water fall trying to catch salmon. He just sat there waiting and a salmon jumped right into his mouth. No wonder they’re towards the bottom of the food chain. The fish, that is. Migrating logistics aside, salmon are majestic fish. It’s flavor is unique and powerful and not for the novice fish eater.
Reading (I believe it’s pronounced Red-ing) sauce is something I came across while reading Around the World in 80 Days. It’s another book full of good English cuisine. However, I had to ask my English neighbor about this sauce and another in the same book called Royal British Sauce. She had never heard of either before. It’s possible it was made up by Jules Verne but highly unlikely as his expertise was science fiction and futuristic engineering, not the culinary arts. More than likely, they are sauces that were known by other names 150 years ago and has evolved into something entirely different today.
As far as I can tell, Reading Sauce is the precursor to today’s Worcestershire sauce and was the inspiration to our American A1® Sauce. I was able to find only one product online called Cock’s Reading Sauce. Unfortunately, they don’t ship to the US. My English neighbor told me that I could buy something in our neighborhood grocer called English Pub Sauce and that it’s similar to A1®. I tried it and it was excellent! I can’t imagine A1® on fish, let alone salmon, but that English Pub Sauce goes on just about anything, including a big basket of fish and chips.
A few months ago, while I was still trying to think of what do for this tenth day, a customer came in and ordered our salmon, but wanted it a little different. He wanted the salmon plain, but topped with garlic and Worcestershire sauce. I figured he had to be English.
Ten Lords a’ Leaping
Poached Salmon with Reading Sauce
4 8 oz skinless Salmon filets
1 can vegetable stock
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup white wine or ½ cup white grape juice and 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
4 whole dry bay leaves
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic
Or
¼ cup A1® sauce
Preheat oven to 350°. Mix the vegetable stock, the lemon juice and white wine or grape juice together. Place the salmon filets in a casserole dish and cover with the liquids. Cook in the oven for 30 minutes.
Place the Worcestershire sauce and garlic, or the A1® sauce, in a small metal bowl. When the salmon is done, leave the salmon in the oven, turn the oven off and place the sauce in the oven to warm, about 10 minutes.
Plate the salmon with your favorite vegetables and some rice, perhaps, and gently drizzle the sauce over the salmon.
Then I saw a show on PBS and it gave me an idea. I don’t remember what kind of show it was, but I think it was a nature show about bears. The idea came to me when I saw a huge Grizzly sitting in the middle of a water fall trying to catch salmon. He just sat there waiting and a salmon jumped right into his mouth. No wonder they’re towards the bottom of the food chain. The fish, that is. Migrating logistics aside, salmon are majestic fish. It’s flavor is unique and powerful and not for the novice fish eater.
Reading (I believe it’s pronounced Red-ing) sauce is something I came across while reading Around the World in 80 Days. It’s another book full of good English cuisine. However, I had to ask my English neighbor about this sauce and another in the same book called Royal British Sauce. She had never heard of either before. It’s possible it was made up by Jules Verne but highly unlikely as his expertise was science fiction and futuristic engineering, not the culinary arts. More than likely, they are sauces that were known by other names 150 years ago and has evolved into something entirely different today.
As far as I can tell, Reading Sauce is the precursor to today’s Worcestershire sauce and was the inspiration to our American A1® Sauce. I was able to find only one product online called Cock’s Reading Sauce. Unfortunately, they don’t ship to the US. My English neighbor told me that I could buy something in our neighborhood grocer called English Pub Sauce and that it’s similar to A1®. I tried it and it was excellent! I can’t imagine A1® on fish, let alone salmon, but that English Pub Sauce goes on just about anything, including a big basket of fish and chips.
A few months ago, while I was still trying to think of what do for this tenth day, a customer came in and ordered our salmon, but wanted it a little different. He wanted the salmon plain, but topped with garlic and Worcestershire sauce. I figured he had to be English.
Ten Lords a’ Leaping
Poached Salmon with Reading Sauce
4 8 oz skinless Salmon filets
1 can vegetable stock
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup white wine or ½ cup white grape juice and 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
4 whole dry bay leaves
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon minced fresh garlic
Or
¼ cup A1® sauce
Preheat oven to 350°. Mix the vegetable stock, the lemon juice and white wine or grape juice together. Place the salmon filets in a casserole dish and cover with the liquids. Cook in the oven for 30 minutes.
Place the Worcestershire sauce and garlic, or the A1® sauce, in a small metal bowl. When the salmon is done, leave the salmon in the oven, turn the oven off and place the sauce in the oven to warm, about 10 minutes.
Plate the salmon with your favorite vegetables and some rice, perhaps, and gently drizzle the sauce over the salmon.
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Nine Ladies Dancing
“The house-elf had come dashing back into the room carrying a tray of little cakes, which she set at her mistress‘s elbow.” Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince pg. 434
It took me a long time to figure this one out. In fact, it was the last of the 12 days that I finished. I had thought of doing another salad with Green Goddess Dressing, but then I remembered this bit of Harry Potter.
If you were to see my copies of the series you would notice that I had underlined certain passages. It had nothing to do with trying to solve any mysteries of Harry’s past. It was all about the food. J.K. Rowling was excellent in her use and description of food in her books. The best part, though is the fact that about 90% of the foods she mentions are real British dishes, including this one.
I had a hard time trying to think of what kind of little cakes she was talking about until I asked an English friend of mine that lives in our neighborhood. She told me about fairy cakes which she described as something like tiny muffins. Those English have such funny names for their food!
Nine Ladies Dancing
Assorted Fairy Cakes
1 ½ C flour
¼ cup sugar
2 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
1 beaten egg
¾ C milk
¼ vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 375°. Grease a mini-muffin tin, or use mini muffin paper cups. In one bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Combine the egg, milk and oil in another bowl. Gently whisk together by hand, being careful not to over-mix. The batter should be lumpy. Spoon the batter into prepared muffin tin up to about half to two-thirds full. Bake 10-12 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.
There are endless variations to muffins. There’s cranberry, blueberry, chocolate, banana nut, oatmeal, lemon poppy, gummy worms…ok, sort of endless.
Banana Nut :
Reduce the milk to ½ C. Add ¾ cup mashed banana, the riper and browner the better, and ½ C chopped nuts to the eggs, milk and oil.
Blueberry :
Add 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Cranberry :
Add 1 cup chopped cranberries and an extra 2 tablespoons sugar
Double Chocolate:
Add 1 cup chocolate chips, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder and an extra 2 tablespoons sugar
Don't forget the gummy worms!
It took me a long time to figure this one out. In fact, it was the last of the 12 days that I finished. I had thought of doing another salad with Green Goddess Dressing, but then I remembered this bit of Harry Potter.
If you were to see my copies of the series you would notice that I had underlined certain passages. It had nothing to do with trying to solve any mysteries of Harry’s past. It was all about the food. J.K. Rowling was excellent in her use and description of food in her books. The best part, though is the fact that about 90% of the foods she mentions are real British dishes, including this one.
I had a hard time trying to think of what kind of little cakes she was talking about until I asked an English friend of mine that lives in our neighborhood. She told me about fairy cakes which she described as something like tiny muffins. Those English have such funny names for their food!
Nine Ladies Dancing
Assorted Fairy Cakes
1 ½ C flour
¼ cup sugar
2 tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
1 beaten egg
¾ C milk
¼ vegetable oil
Preheat the oven to 375°. Grease a mini-muffin tin, or use mini muffin paper cups. In one bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Combine the egg, milk and oil in another bowl. Gently whisk together by hand, being careful not to over-mix. The batter should be lumpy. Spoon the batter into prepared muffin tin up to about half to two-thirds full. Bake 10-12 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.
There are endless variations to muffins. There’s cranberry, blueberry, chocolate, banana nut, oatmeal, lemon poppy, gummy worms…ok, sort of endless.
Banana Nut :
Reduce the milk to ½ C. Add ¾ cup mashed banana, the riper and browner the better, and ½ C chopped nuts to the eggs, milk and oil.
Blueberry :
Add 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Cranberry :
Add 1 cup chopped cranberries and an extra 2 tablespoons sugar
Double Chocolate:
Add 1 cup chocolate chips, 2 tablespoons cocoa powder and an extra 2 tablespoons sugar
Don't forget the gummy worms!
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Eight Maids a' Milking
Yeah! No more fowl! I’ve done enough fowl to last me until next Christmas! It’s time for some good ol’ fashioned beef. I love beef. Who doesn’t? Oh yeah, vegetarians. Well, no ‘teef’ here. That’s ‘tofu-beef’. No tofu at all. Zip. Zilch. Nada. Just pure unadulterated beef, just the way I like it. I’m sure you noticed what the Grinch served on Christmas day. Not Who-goose. Not Who-turkey. Who-beaat. (I’ll just pretend he meant Who-beef). And it’s roasted, of course. Not grilled. Not broiled. Not stewed. Not ground and squashed into balls. Not even smoked, although some smoked prime rib sounds good about now. I’m not even talking about pot roast. I’m talking about roast beef. Medium rare, nice and red, shaved thin and piled high on some rye bread with some nice hot mustard, muenster and provolone and…got a little side-tracked, there.
Anywho. Back to beef. My family hails from Normandy where we were known for our apple orchards which still stand today…I think. I suppose I should’ve researched that out. Oh well, too late. At any rate, even today, Normandy cuisine is known for it’s use of apples and the four C’s. - Cider, Calvados (an apple brandy), Cream and Cheese, specifically Camembert which is a soft cheese relative to brie. Get them maids milkin! I need some cheese!
Eight Maids a’ Milking
Roast Beef Normandie with Apple Compote and Camembert Crème Sauce
Roast Beef
1 3-4 lbs top round roast
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 325° F. In a heavy skillet with a little olive oil, sear the roast on all sides until nice and brown, about 3-5 minutes each side. Place on an oven broiler pan and roast for 1 ½ hours or until a meat thermometer reads 120-125° F. Remove from the oven and let it rest, tented with foil. While the roast is in the oven you can work on the compote and Crème sauce.
Apple Compote
3 apples, cored, peeled and chopped
2 cups apple sauce
1 cup apple cider
1 T brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
¼ cup Calvados or cup water and 1 tsp rum extract
Combine all the ingredients in a sauce pan. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat and let simmer until apples are soft and sauce is thick.
Camembert Crème Sauce
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 quart heavy cream
1 8 oz round Camembert, shredded
Dash nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
In a small sauté pan, gently melt the butter. Whisk in the flour until smooth and let simmer for a minute. Set aside. This is the roux (as in Kanga and Little Roo) to thicken the sauce. In a sauce pan, combine the cream and nutmeg and bring to a simmer. Stir in the cheese. Stir continuously until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth. Whisk in the roux and simmer just until the sauce is thick like a gravy.
To serve, slice the hot roast beef as thin as you can. Shaved, we call it. Top with the apple compote and then the Camembert Crème Sauce. Serve with some roasted red potatoes and carrots. Bleu cheese, while a very different in flavor from the Camembert, is a good substitute that goes great with apples.
Anywho. Back to beef. My family hails from Normandy where we were known for our apple orchards which still stand today…I think. I suppose I should’ve researched that out. Oh well, too late. At any rate, even today, Normandy cuisine is known for it’s use of apples and the four C’s. - Cider, Calvados (an apple brandy), Cream and Cheese, specifically Camembert which is a soft cheese relative to brie. Get them maids milkin! I need some cheese!
Eight Maids a’ Milking
Roast Beef Normandie with Apple Compote and Camembert Crème Sauce
Roast Beef
1 3-4 lbs top round roast
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 325° F. In a heavy skillet with a little olive oil, sear the roast on all sides until nice and brown, about 3-5 minutes each side. Place on an oven broiler pan and roast for 1 ½ hours or until a meat thermometer reads 120-125° F. Remove from the oven and let it rest, tented with foil. While the roast is in the oven you can work on the compote and Crème sauce.
Apple Compote
3 apples, cored, peeled and chopped
2 cups apple sauce
1 cup apple cider
1 T brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
¼ cup Calvados or cup water and 1 tsp rum extract
Combine all the ingredients in a sauce pan. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat and let simmer until apples are soft and sauce is thick.
Camembert Crème Sauce
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
1 quart heavy cream
1 8 oz round Camembert, shredded
Dash nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste
In a small sauté pan, gently melt the butter. Whisk in the flour until smooth and let simmer for a minute. Set aside. This is the roux (as in Kanga and Little Roo) to thicken the sauce. In a sauce pan, combine the cream and nutmeg and bring to a simmer. Stir in the cheese. Stir continuously until the cheese is melted and the sauce is smooth. Whisk in the roux and simmer just until the sauce is thick like a gravy.
To serve, slice the hot roast beef as thin as you can. Shaved, we call it. Top with the apple compote and then the Camembert Crème Sauce. Serve with some roasted red potatoes and carrots. Bleu cheese, while a very different in flavor from the Camembert, is a good substitute that goes great with apples.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Seven Swans a' Swimming
Yesterday I realized just how difficult some of these recipes are. Actually, it’s not that they are difficult to make, just difficult to write. It’s one thing to make it up as I go along, adding this here and that there, tasting it at each step, but it’s another to put it down on paper (or virtual paper) for someone who doesn’t work in a professional kitchen. We have our own lexicon, code, and short-hand way of communicating that makes it simple for us and saves us time, but can be confusing for the amateur hobby chef.
I recently purchased Auguste Escoffier’s French Cookbook. He’s the Johann Sebastian Bach, the Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the Ludwig van Beethoven of chefs. He is the Master of Masters. Almost all the techniques and basic recipes we use today can be traced back to him, but you wouldn’t know it if you read his book. There’s no list of ingredients and no list of measurements. Many of the descriptions are vague because a lot of it is implied.
It’s not just Escoffier, either. I’ve read recipes from 100-200 years ago meant for the average housewife and they’re just as vague. Chefs today have nothing on Ma Ingalls.
So, today is the seventh day of Christmas. My neighbors have a little pond with some swans (real swans, Sarah…not Farmville swans!). I don’t think swans were meant to be eaten. I’d say their on the ‘list’ along with dolphins and monkeys. I’m sure her true love gave them to her as lawn ornaments (and no, not like the plastic pink flamingo kind!). So, I’ve used the next obvious choice for a substitute: duck. Some grocery stores sell duck whole in the freezer next to the turkeys. Not as fun to use for turkey bowling, but frozen duck football on the other hand….just kidding! I’m sure my Uncle Bill and his boys could bag me a wild one. Of course, you could just use chicken….of course!
Seven Swans a’ Swimming
Smoked Duck Breast with Chanterelles and Wild Berry Jus
4 boneless duck breasts, skin on (or chicken…of course)
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon coarse black pepper
¼ tablespoon dried granulated garlic
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons brown sugar
½ cup white grape juice
1 orange, squeezed
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 ¼ cup frozen raspberry, blackberry, blueberry mix
1 ½ cup beef stock/broth
½ cup chicken stock/broth
1 cup chopped chanterelle mushrooms
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
Combine the salt, pepper, and garlic and season the duck. Prepare your grill, smoker or oven smoking bag. Your grill or smoker should not be more than 250° with plenty of smoke. Use water soaked wood chips if you have to. Smoke the duck 15-20 minutes or until the internal temperature of the meat reaches at least 140°. For the smoking bag, follow the instructions on the bag.
In a sauté pan, cook the mushrooms in a little olive oil until soft, about 5 minutes. Season with a little salt and pepper. Set aside.
In a sauce pan, melt the butter and brown sugar together and simmer for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the white grape juice, orange juice and cider vinegar. Return to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the berries and broths, bring it back to a boil and simmer for about 25 minutes on medium low until the sauce is thick and reduced by about half. Strain through a fine wire-mesh strainer, pressing on the solids. Discard the solids. Stir in the mushrooms, rum and maple syrup and let simmer for 5 more minutes.
I’d serve this with some fresh steamed vegetables, (asparagus maybe?) and roasted red potatoes and plenty of the wild berry juice to make it ‘swimming’. You could try a whole combination of wild mushrooms, like shitake, oyster, morel, woodear, just to name a few. If you can’t find any fresh wild mushrooms at your local grocery store or specialty store, just use a Portobello, cleaned of it’s gills, cut in half and sliced thin. Remember, Duck is game so don’t overcook it! It’s ok to cook duck breasts medium. Especially if it’s wild duck. Mmm buckshot.
I recently purchased Auguste Escoffier’s French Cookbook. He’s the Johann Sebastian Bach, the Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, the Ludwig van Beethoven of chefs. He is the Master of Masters. Almost all the techniques and basic recipes we use today can be traced back to him, but you wouldn’t know it if you read his book. There’s no list of ingredients and no list of measurements. Many of the descriptions are vague because a lot of it is implied.
It’s not just Escoffier, either. I’ve read recipes from 100-200 years ago meant for the average housewife and they’re just as vague. Chefs today have nothing on Ma Ingalls.
So, today is the seventh day of Christmas. My neighbors have a little pond with some swans (real swans, Sarah…not Farmville swans!). I don’t think swans were meant to be eaten. I’d say their on the ‘list’ along with dolphins and monkeys. I’m sure her true love gave them to her as lawn ornaments (and no, not like the plastic pink flamingo kind!). So, I’ve used the next obvious choice for a substitute: duck. Some grocery stores sell duck whole in the freezer next to the turkeys. Not as fun to use for turkey bowling, but frozen duck football on the other hand….just kidding! I’m sure my Uncle Bill and his boys could bag me a wild one. Of course, you could just use chicken….of course!
Seven Swans a’ Swimming
Smoked Duck Breast with Chanterelles and Wild Berry Jus
4 boneless duck breasts, skin on (or chicken…of course)
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon coarse black pepper
¼ tablespoon dried granulated garlic
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons brown sugar
½ cup white grape juice
1 orange, squeezed
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 ¼ cup frozen raspberry, blackberry, blueberry mix
1 ½ cup beef stock/broth
½ cup chicken stock/broth
1 cup chopped chanterelle mushrooms
1 teaspoon rum extract
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup
Combine the salt, pepper, and garlic and season the duck. Prepare your grill, smoker or oven smoking bag. Your grill or smoker should not be more than 250° with plenty of smoke. Use water soaked wood chips if you have to. Smoke the duck 15-20 minutes or until the internal temperature of the meat reaches at least 140°. For the smoking bag, follow the instructions on the bag.
In a sauté pan, cook the mushrooms in a little olive oil until soft, about 5 minutes. Season with a little salt and pepper. Set aside.
In a sauce pan, melt the butter and brown sugar together and simmer for about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the white grape juice, orange juice and cider vinegar. Return to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the berries and broths, bring it back to a boil and simmer for about 25 minutes on medium low until the sauce is thick and reduced by about half. Strain through a fine wire-mesh strainer, pressing on the solids. Discard the solids. Stir in the mushrooms, rum and maple syrup and let simmer for 5 more minutes.
I’d serve this with some fresh steamed vegetables, (asparagus maybe?) and roasted red potatoes and plenty of the wild berry juice to make it ‘swimming’. You could try a whole combination of wild mushrooms, like shitake, oyster, morel, woodear, just to name a few. If you can’t find any fresh wild mushrooms at your local grocery store or specialty store, just use a Portobello, cleaned of it’s gills, cut in half and sliced thin. Remember, Duck is game so don’t overcook it! It’s ok to cook duck breasts medium. Especially if it’s wild duck. Mmm buckshot.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Six Geese a'Laying
Whew! Half-way there! Only one more day of fowl then it really gets interesting. With this one, it was obvious what I was going to do. Eggnog! Just kidding. Actually, that was my mom’s idea and it’s not half bad. Her Eggnog rocks. Maybe I’ll save that for New Years.
There are at least 1000 ways an egg can be cooked. There is no way I’m going to mention all of them. I don’t think I could remember them all. I don’t think I know them all! But to me, it doesn’t matter. I love eggs. I’ll eat them anyway I can get them. I’ve even drunk one raw in a glass of milk. Ah, those were the days. Don’t think my body could handle that again, though. Kind of reminded me of an oyster shooter. (And no, it’s not someone who shoots oysters.! It’s a raw oyster in a shot glass with a dollop of cocktail sauce)
I can’t stay in France all Christmas. I think Ron Weasley was right. Muggles who slide down the side of a mountain with wooden sticks strapped to their feet, have got to be insane. So, I’m heading South of the Border or as far South as I can get without needing a passport. Phoenix will do nicely, but I’ll settle for San Diego or even as far North as Santa Barbara. But let’s not do something ordinary and ‘gringo’. It’s Christmas. Make it special!
Six Geese a’ Laying
Huevos Ranchero with Goose Sausage, Refried Navy Beans and Roasted Salsa Verde
Goose Sausage
Sausage is not particularly difficult to make. If you don’t have access to goose, chicken is fine, of course. You should be able to find some goose sausage online. There’s no shame in Maybe later we’ll talk about making sausages. For this dish, cut the sausages in half and fry them up in a skillet until brown and juicy!
Salsa Verde (Green Chili Sauce)
Before we start, there are several things you should know. It’s best to use the canned green chilies. Roasting chilies involves rubbing them with oil, putting them on a hot grill until completely black, putting them in a bowl and covering them with plastic to let them steam in their own heat for an hour and then rubbing off the burnt skin. Way too much effort. However, if you want to go through all that trouble, the taste is totally worth it. Also, using canned tomatillos is totally acceptable because blanching them involves peeling off the paper-like skin, cooking them in hot boiling salted water for one minute and immediately cooling them in an ice water bath. Again, if you want to do that it is totally worth the effort. If you have a tomato garden and you have some nice green tomatoes, those work just fine instead of tomatillos. They are not related in any way (even though they look the same), but the flavors are very similar. You don’t even have to blanch them. Finally, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of the Poblano chilies because they aren’t all that hot. If you want some heat, add a jalapeño or two. If you are feeling brave, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of that one either. Of course, there is no shame in buying a bottle of ready made Salsa Verde.
1 T Olive Oil
1 Small Onion, chopped
2 fresh Poblano chilies, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh minced garlic
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1 8oz can green chilies or 10 - 12 roasted fresh Anaheim chilies
1 7 oz can tomatillos or ½ lb fresh tomatillos cleaned, blanched and cut in quarters, or
1 14 oz can chicken or vegetable broth
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1 T lime juice
salt and pepper
In a medium-sized sauce pan, heat the olive oil just a little. Sauté the onions, Poblanos, garlic, cumin and oregano until the onions get soft and the garlic and spices start to sweat. Put this mixture in a food processor with the roasted chilies, tomatillos and half of the broth and blend until smooth. Put all this back into the same sauce pan with the rest of the broth and bring the sauce to a simmer. Let the sauce cook for about five minutes. Add the cilantro, lime juice and salt and pepper. Taste it and add a little more salt and pepper if needed.
Refried Navy Beans
Canned refried beans aren’t as good as the real thing. However, if you want to use canned beans and mash them or put them in the food processor, that works just as good as cooking the beans all day yourself. Just rinse two cans of Navy beans, and mash them in your food processor with ½ cup of the salsa verde.
To plate this fine dish, start with cooked white rice topped with a little salsa verde. Top with a tostada shell (those come ready made too! How convenient!), spread with plenty of refried Navy beans. Top with an egg, fried however you like it (or scrambled if you want…I don’t care!), topped with melted shredded cheese. Top this with some more salsa verde, the sausages on the side and there ya go!
I’d say, “Bon Appetit” but no one in Mexico would understand.
There are at least 1000 ways an egg can be cooked. There is no way I’m going to mention all of them. I don’t think I could remember them all. I don’t think I know them all! But to me, it doesn’t matter. I love eggs. I’ll eat them anyway I can get them. I’ve even drunk one raw in a glass of milk. Ah, those were the days. Don’t think my body could handle that again, though. Kind of reminded me of an oyster shooter. (And no, it’s not someone who shoots oysters.! It’s a raw oyster in a shot glass with a dollop of cocktail sauce)
I can’t stay in France all Christmas. I think Ron Weasley was right. Muggles who slide down the side of a mountain with wooden sticks strapped to their feet, have got to be insane. So, I’m heading South of the Border or as far South as I can get without needing a passport. Phoenix will do nicely, but I’ll settle for San Diego or even as far North as Santa Barbara. But let’s not do something ordinary and ‘gringo’. It’s Christmas. Make it special!
Six Geese a’ Laying
Huevos Ranchero with Goose Sausage, Refried Navy Beans and Roasted Salsa Verde
Goose Sausage
Sausage is not particularly difficult to make. If you don’t have access to goose, chicken is fine, of course. You should be able to find some goose sausage online. There’s no shame in Maybe later we’ll talk about making sausages. For this dish, cut the sausages in half and fry them up in a skillet until brown and juicy!
Salsa Verde (Green Chili Sauce)
Before we start, there are several things you should know. It’s best to use the canned green chilies. Roasting chilies involves rubbing them with oil, putting them on a hot grill until completely black, putting them in a bowl and covering them with plastic to let them steam in their own heat for an hour and then rubbing off the burnt skin. Way too much effort. However, if you want to go through all that trouble, the taste is totally worth it. Also, using canned tomatillos is totally acceptable because blanching them involves peeling off the paper-like skin, cooking them in hot boiling salted water for one minute and immediately cooling them in an ice water bath. Again, if you want to do that it is totally worth the effort. If you have a tomato garden and you have some nice green tomatoes, those work just fine instead of tomatillos. They are not related in any way (even though they look the same), but the flavors are very similar. You don’t even have to blanch them. Finally, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of the Poblano chilies because they aren’t all that hot. If you want some heat, add a jalapeño or two. If you are feeling brave, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of that one either. Of course, there is no shame in buying a bottle of ready made Salsa Verde.
1 T Olive Oil
1 Small Onion, chopped
2 fresh Poblano chilies, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh minced garlic
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1 8oz can green chilies or 10 - 12 roasted fresh Anaheim chilies
1 7 oz can tomatillos or ½ lb fresh tomatillos cleaned, blanched and cut in quarters, or
1 14 oz can chicken or vegetable broth
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1 T lime juice
salt and pepper
In a medium-sized sauce pan, heat the olive oil just a little. Sauté the onions, Poblanos, garlic, cumin and oregano until the onions get soft and the garlic and spices start to sweat. Put this mixture in a food processor with the roasted chilies, tomatillos and half of the broth and blend until smooth. Put all this back into the same sauce pan with the rest of the broth and bring the sauce to a simmer. Let the sauce cook for about five minutes. Add the cilantro, lime juice and salt and pepper. Taste it and add a little more salt and pepper if needed.
Refried Navy Beans
Canned refried beans aren’t as good as the real thing. However, if you want to use canned beans and mash them or put them in the food processor, that works just as good as cooking the beans all day yourself. Just rinse two cans of Navy beans, and mash them in your food processor with ½ cup of the salsa verde.
To plate this fine dish, start with cooked white rice topped with a little salsa verde. Top with a tostada shell (those come ready made too! How convenient!), spread with plenty of refried Navy beans. Top with an egg, fried however you like it (or scrambled if you want…I don’t care!), topped with melted shredded cheese. Top this with some more salsa verde, the sausages on the side and there ya go!
I’d say, “Bon Appetit” but no one in Mexico would understand.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
FIVE GOLD RINGS!
Ah, the gilded fifth day. It’s the day sung the loudest in the song because it’s the day pretty much every woman is waiting for. And who wouldn’t? We all love a little bling-bling right? Well, no. I’m sorry to say, ladies, but the fifth day has nothing to do with jewelry. If you haven’t guessed already, it has to do with a bird. Of course. Specifically, it means the Ring-necked Pheasant. (There’s the pheasant! I knew it’d come up sometime or another!) Wow. Seven birds in seven days. No wonder the meaning was changed. One can only eat so much fowl.
To represent the five golden rings, I’ve picked something that’s not a meat and is very popular, especially if you’re from Hawaii. Or, in case of today’s recipe, Brazil. There’s a restaurant here in town called Tucano’s. It’s one of my favorite places to eat. It’s a Brazilian place that serves not only my favorite Feijoada, but also a Brazilian BBQ of sorts called Churasco. It’s done on long sword-like spits over a wood burning pit. They have everything - pork tenderloin, beef tenderloin, sausage, chicken, vegetables and, of course, brown sugar glazed pineapple. I’m salivating as we speak. Every time I go there, I feel like I have to be carried out in a wheelchair.
You can do this out on the grill in the summer, if you like. For the sake of winter, I’m doing it in the oven. Unless you’re in Phoenix during those frosty 70° winters. Oh, and you definitely have to down it with some guarana!
Five Golden Rings
Pork Loin Brazilian Churasco with Roasted Squash, Red Peppers and Pineapple Rings
1 2-3 lbs pork loin roast
2 T salt
2 tsp granulated garlic
1 tsp pepper
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 T chili powder
Juice of 2 limes
2-3 zucchini
2 large red peppers
¼ C olive oil
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1 large can pineapple slices
½ C pineapple juice from can
½ C brown sugar, packed
½ tsp ground allspice
6 pack or 2 liter bottle of guarana soda, chilled
Preheat oven to 325° F. Trim the fat off the roast. In a heavy skillet, render the fat. If there’s little or no fat, use olive oil. You should get at least a couple of tablespoons fat. Mix together the salt, granulated garlic and pepper and season the roast. Brown the roast in the hot grease on all sides until golden brown, about 3-5 minutes each side. Place on an oven broiler pan and place in the oven. In the same skillet, mix in the brown sugar , chili powder and lime juice and heat just until the brown sugar becomes liquid and starts to simmer. Pour over the roast in the oven, fat scraps and all, making sure you completely cover the roast. Cook for 1 - 1 ½ hours or until a meat thermometer reads 155°F.
While the roast is cooking, cut the ends off each zucchini, then cut them in half cross-wise. Cut each half in quarters, trimming off the seeds. Do the same with the red peppers. In a mixing bowl, toss the oil, salt and pepper together and mix in the squash and red peppers, coating well. In another mixing bowl, combine the pineapple juice, brown sugar and allspice. Carefully soak the pineapple rings in the mixture.
When the roast has 30 minutes left, add the vegetables on one side of the roast and the pineapple on the other. Cook until the roast is done. Let the roast rest for 10-15 minutes before carving.
To represent the five golden rings, I’ve picked something that’s not a meat and is very popular, especially if you’re from Hawaii. Or, in case of today’s recipe, Brazil. There’s a restaurant here in town called Tucano’s. It’s one of my favorite places to eat. It’s a Brazilian place that serves not only my favorite Feijoada, but also a Brazilian BBQ of sorts called Churasco. It’s done on long sword-like spits over a wood burning pit. They have everything - pork tenderloin, beef tenderloin, sausage, chicken, vegetables and, of course, brown sugar glazed pineapple. I’m salivating as we speak. Every time I go there, I feel like I have to be carried out in a wheelchair.
You can do this out on the grill in the summer, if you like. For the sake of winter, I’m doing it in the oven. Unless you’re in Phoenix during those frosty 70° winters. Oh, and you definitely have to down it with some guarana!
Five Golden Rings
Pork Loin Brazilian Churasco with Roasted Squash, Red Peppers and Pineapple Rings
1 2-3 lbs pork loin roast
2 T salt
2 tsp granulated garlic
1 tsp pepper
1 cup brown sugar, packed
1 T chili powder
Juice of 2 limes
2-3 zucchini
2 large red peppers
¼ C olive oil
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1 large can pineapple slices
½ C pineapple juice from can
½ C brown sugar, packed
½ tsp ground allspice
6 pack or 2 liter bottle of guarana soda, chilled
Preheat oven to 325° F. Trim the fat off the roast. In a heavy skillet, render the fat. If there’s little or no fat, use olive oil. You should get at least a couple of tablespoons fat. Mix together the salt, granulated garlic and pepper and season the roast. Brown the roast in the hot grease on all sides until golden brown, about 3-5 minutes each side. Place on an oven broiler pan and place in the oven. In the same skillet, mix in the brown sugar , chili powder and lime juice and heat just until the brown sugar becomes liquid and starts to simmer. Pour over the roast in the oven, fat scraps and all, making sure you completely cover the roast. Cook for 1 - 1 ½ hours or until a meat thermometer reads 155°F.
While the roast is cooking, cut the ends off each zucchini, then cut them in half cross-wise. Cut each half in quarters, trimming off the seeds. Do the same with the red peppers. In a mixing bowl, toss the oil, salt and pepper together and mix in the squash and red peppers, coating well. In another mixing bowl, combine the pineapple juice, brown sugar and allspice. Carefully soak the pineapple rings in the mixture.
When the roast has 30 minutes left, add the vegetables on one side of the roast and the pineapple on the other. Cook until the roast is done. Let the roast rest for 10-15 minutes before carving.
Friday, December 4, 2009
Four Calling Birds
It’s interesting how the English language has evolved. Only in England can you be speaking the same language as they did say 500 years ago and not understand a single word. I was reading in the newspaper the other day (I think I’m still the only one! My brother only reads the sports page (sort of) and my mom only buys the newspaper because here in Utah we get the LDS Church News for free with a subscription to the local paper), and they, a word that now means “un-employable people with very little else to waste tax-payer dollars on and too much time on their hands”, (Aren’t you glad I broke it down to one word?) discovered that the items listed in the 12 Days of Christmas now cost close to $87,000, slightly up from last year. I’d like to see the day when the Leaping Lords take a pay cut. It’s a union thing.
Anywho….back to the English language we all know and hate so much. These same very bored people noted that “calling birds” refers to canaries. You know what I’m going to say next. “Wrong!” Actually, according to a friend of my mother’s who did some research, none of which I can remember so your just going to have to take my word for it, the original manuscript for the song lists, not “calling birds”, but “cawling birds”, meaning “birds that caw.” Think “Four and Twenty Blackbirds, Baked in a Pie.” Yeah, I think I’ll stick with chicken. It’s a safer bet.
For this recipe I’ve used quail, which is actually more closely related to the partridge and which I could have used instead of pheasant. However, pheasant worked better for the salad on the first day and quail works better here. Yeah, chicken’s looking good right about now, huh?
Risotto is an Italian dish that uses a short grain rice called Arborio. It has a lot of starch which gives it a creamy texture when it’s cooked. You can find some par-boiled risotto mixes in your grocery store, or you can just use plain everyday, joe-blow rice. Whichever floats your boat.
Four Calling Birds
Roasted Quail Stuffed Portobello with Cilantro Lime Risotto
4 boneless Quail or chicken breasts
4 tsp olive oil
1 T salt
½ T pepper
½ T ground coriander
4 large Portobello mushrooms
2 T white wine vinegar
¼ C olive oil
2 T white Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp ground rosemary
1 box risotto rice mix (w/out seasoning)
Or
1 C Arborio rice
2 T butter
2 green onions, chopped
½ tsp minced garlic
¼ tsp cumin
¼ tsp coriander
2 ½ C hot chicken broth
1 bunch cilantro, chopped fine
Juice of one lime
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 300°F. If using Arborio rice, start the chicken stock simmering. Mix together the salt, pepper and coriander. Season the quail, or chicken, with this mixture and coat each with a teaspoon of olive oil. Let rest.
With a spoon, gently clean out the black gills from underneath the mushrooms. Mix the white wine vinegar, olive oil, white Worcestershire sauce and rosemary. Add the clean mushrooms and let soak.
If using risotto mix, follow the instructions on the box with out the seasoning packet. Instead, use the green onions, garlic, cumin and coriander, and use the chicken broth instead of water. If using Arborio rice, first, sauté the green onions, garlic and spices in one tablespoon of butter in a heavy skillet. Add the rice. Stir the rice until well coated with the butter but doesn’t turn brown. Add ½ cup chicken stock and let simmer, stirring occasionally until the liquid is almost completely soaked up by the rice. Add another ½ cup of chicken stock. Keep doing this until all the chicken stock is gone and soaked up by the rice. This should take about 18-20 minutes on medium heat.
While the rice is cooking, gently brown the quail in another hot skillet with a little olive oil, about 30 second each side. Place the quail and mushrooms on an oven broiler rack and place in the oven about 10 minutes. Turn off the oven but leave the quail and mushrooms inside until the rice is done.
When the rice is done, stir in the cilantro, lime juice and 1 tablespoon butter. Season with salt, to taste.
To plate, start with the risotto, then the mushroom, inside up to look like a nest, then the bird.
This is a challenging recipe, but not so difficult that you can’t do it! Keep it simple by using chicken and long grain rice, if you must.
Anywho….back to the English language we all know and hate so much. These same very bored people noted that “calling birds” refers to canaries. You know what I’m going to say next. “Wrong!” Actually, according to a friend of my mother’s who did some research, none of which I can remember so your just going to have to take my word for it, the original manuscript for the song lists, not “calling birds”, but “cawling birds”, meaning “birds that caw.” Think “Four and Twenty Blackbirds, Baked in a Pie.” Yeah, I think I’ll stick with chicken. It’s a safer bet.
For this recipe I’ve used quail, which is actually more closely related to the partridge and which I could have used instead of pheasant. However, pheasant worked better for the salad on the first day and quail works better here. Yeah, chicken’s looking good right about now, huh?
Risotto is an Italian dish that uses a short grain rice called Arborio. It has a lot of starch which gives it a creamy texture when it’s cooked. You can find some par-boiled risotto mixes in your grocery store, or you can just use plain everyday, joe-blow rice. Whichever floats your boat.
Four Calling Birds
Roasted Quail Stuffed Portobello with Cilantro Lime Risotto
4 boneless Quail or chicken breasts
4 tsp olive oil
1 T salt
½ T pepper
½ T ground coriander
4 large Portobello mushrooms
2 T white wine vinegar
¼ C olive oil
2 T white Worcestershire sauce
½ tsp ground rosemary
1 box risotto rice mix (w/out seasoning)
Or
1 C Arborio rice
2 T butter
2 green onions, chopped
½ tsp minced garlic
¼ tsp cumin
¼ tsp coriander
2 ½ C hot chicken broth
1 bunch cilantro, chopped fine
Juice of one lime
Salt to taste
Preheat oven to 300°F. If using Arborio rice, start the chicken stock simmering. Mix together the salt, pepper and coriander. Season the quail, or chicken, with this mixture and coat each with a teaspoon of olive oil. Let rest.
With a spoon, gently clean out the black gills from underneath the mushrooms. Mix the white wine vinegar, olive oil, white Worcestershire sauce and rosemary. Add the clean mushrooms and let soak.
If using risotto mix, follow the instructions on the box with out the seasoning packet. Instead, use the green onions, garlic, cumin and coriander, and use the chicken broth instead of water. If using Arborio rice, first, sauté the green onions, garlic and spices in one tablespoon of butter in a heavy skillet. Add the rice. Stir the rice until well coated with the butter but doesn’t turn brown. Add ½ cup chicken stock and let simmer, stirring occasionally until the liquid is almost completely soaked up by the rice. Add another ½ cup of chicken stock. Keep doing this until all the chicken stock is gone and soaked up by the rice. This should take about 18-20 minutes on medium heat.
While the rice is cooking, gently brown the quail in another hot skillet with a little olive oil, about 30 second each side. Place the quail and mushrooms on an oven broiler rack and place in the oven about 10 minutes. Turn off the oven but leave the quail and mushrooms inside until the rice is done.
When the rice is done, stir in the cilantro, lime juice and 1 tablespoon butter. Season with salt, to taste.
To plate, start with the risotto, then the mushroom, inside up to look like a nest, then the bird.
This is a challenging recipe, but not so difficult that you can’t do it! Keep it simple by using chicken and long grain rice, if you must.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Three French Hens
I’m not sure what is defined as a French Hen. Is it a chicken with a beret and a rude attitude towards anything non-French? What ever the case may be, I’m sure it’s tasty. Provençal, on the other hand, I do know. And yes, it is tasty!
It originally referred to the Provence region of France between Paris and the Mediterranean Sea. Now, it means anything to do with small medieval villages. If you’ve ever seen the movie Chocolat with Juliet Binoche (and if you haven’t, shame on you!), that is Provençal. It’s kind of like “Country Style” or “Home Style” or “Southern” cooking here in the States. Think French Rednecks. (Now that’d be funny! Wee Wee Mon-sewer!)
I chose soup for the third day for a reason but I’ll wait until I’m done to tell you why. Those of you choir-geeks who know the song “The Twelve Days After Christmas” know what I’m talking about.
This particular recipe has been in our family since our good friends, the Millers, invited our family to join them in their summer retreat in San Diego and Louise introduced it to us. This is just the kind of soup you need when you’re sick. Fresh, nutritious and easy on the stomach.
Three French Hens
Provençal Chicken Soup
1 large onion chopped
1 clove garlic minced
1/2 cup celery, leaves and all chopped
2 quarts water
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon thyme crushed
1 teaspoon rosemary crushed
3 pounds chicken pieces
2 carrots diced
4 ounces mushrooms sliced
2 medium potatoes peeled and cubed
1 cup frozen corn
1 cup frozen peas
1 zucchini sliced
1 cup broccoli florets
1 cup cauliflower flowerets
In a large pot, sauté the onion, garlic and celery until soft. Add the water, spices and chicken and simmer covered for 1 hour. Remove the chicken and let cool. De-bone. Add the carrots and mushrooms to the broth and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and simmer for another 5 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables and simmer for at least 10 minutes or until the potatoes are done. Add the chicken meat and serve with a hearty bread.
It originally referred to the Provence region of France between Paris and the Mediterranean Sea. Now, it means anything to do with small medieval villages. If you’ve ever seen the movie Chocolat with Juliet Binoche (and if you haven’t, shame on you!), that is Provençal. It’s kind of like “Country Style” or “Home Style” or “Southern” cooking here in the States. Think French Rednecks. (Now that’d be funny! Wee Wee Mon-sewer!)
I chose soup for the third day for a reason but I’ll wait until I’m done to tell you why. Those of you choir-geeks who know the song “The Twelve Days After Christmas” know what I’m talking about.
This particular recipe has been in our family since our good friends, the Millers, invited our family to join them in their summer retreat in San Diego and Louise introduced it to us. This is just the kind of soup you need when you’re sick. Fresh, nutritious and easy on the stomach.
Three French Hens
Provençal Chicken Soup
1 large onion chopped
1 clove garlic minced
1/2 cup celery, leaves and all chopped
2 quarts water
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon thyme crushed
1 teaspoon rosemary crushed
3 pounds chicken pieces
2 carrots diced
4 ounces mushrooms sliced
2 medium potatoes peeled and cubed
1 cup frozen corn
1 cup frozen peas
1 zucchini sliced
1 cup broccoli florets
1 cup cauliflower flowerets
In a large pot, sauté the onion, garlic and celery until soft. Add the water, spices and chicken and simmer covered for 1 hour. Remove the chicken and let cool. De-bone. Add the carrots and mushrooms to the broth and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and simmer for another 5 minutes. Add the remaining vegetables and simmer for at least 10 minutes or until the potatoes are done. Add the chicken meat and serve with a hearty bread.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Two Turtledoves
Day Two. What’s to say about turtledoves except that I don’t think I’ve ever seen one and our family cat once gave birth to a liter of four, two black and white tabbies and two calicos and my sisters named one of the calicos Regina Turtledove. Not sure what that means but the other calico kitten was named Tiger which was more appropriate. Anywho…
I’m sure some of you are hunters and may, or may not have, bagged a dove or two. My grandfather and his brothers used to hunt quail. My Uncle Bill and his sons like to hunt duck, among other things. He had a German Shorthaired Pointer named Hoss that was a little too good at what he did. Once you made the shot, if you didn’t get to the bird before Hoss did, there usually wasn’t much left of the bird. He didn’t like to share, that silly dog. I’m not much of a hunter so I think I’ll stick to eating.
Instead of Turtledoves, I’ve used squab which is actually a pigeon and is roughly the same size as a turtledove. You could also use Cornish game hens, quail, or that universal bird - chicken.
Two Turtledoves
Prosciutto Wrapped Boneless Squab with Mediterranean Tomato Fig Sauce
4 boneless squab, or 2 large boneless chicken breasts
2 slices prosciutto (Italian ham)
Olive oil
¼ C diced sweet Vidalia onion
½ tsp minced fresh garlic
4 Roma tomatoes, diced
4 figs, diced
1 T chopped fresh sweet basil
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 C chicken broth
1 15 Oz can crushed tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
Season the meat with a little pepper. No salt. Wrap with the prosciutto and secure with a toothpick. In a large heavy skillet with a little olive oil, sear all sides until golden brown, about a minute each side. Add the onions, garlic, Roma tomatoes and figs and sauté a couple of minutes until the onions, tomatoes and figs are soft and aromatic. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar and chicken broth, scrapping any residue off the bottom. Mix in the canned tomatoes and fresh chopped basil. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or so and the sauce is nice and thick. Serve over cooked couscous or angel hair pasta.
I honestly haven't tried it yet...tonight? Friday? We'll see.
I’m sure some of you are hunters and may, or may not have, bagged a dove or two. My grandfather and his brothers used to hunt quail. My Uncle Bill and his sons like to hunt duck, among other things. He had a German Shorthaired Pointer named Hoss that was a little too good at what he did. Once you made the shot, if you didn’t get to the bird before Hoss did, there usually wasn’t much left of the bird. He didn’t like to share, that silly dog. I’m not much of a hunter so I think I’ll stick to eating.
Instead of Turtledoves, I’ve used squab which is actually a pigeon and is roughly the same size as a turtledove. You could also use Cornish game hens, quail, or that universal bird - chicken.
Two Turtledoves
Prosciutto Wrapped Boneless Squab with Mediterranean Tomato Fig Sauce
4 boneless squab, or 2 large boneless chicken breasts
2 slices prosciutto (Italian ham)
Olive oil
¼ C diced sweet Vidalia onion
½ tsp minced fresh garlic
4 Roma tomatoes, diced
4 figs, diced
1 T chopped fresh sweet basil
2 T balsamic vinegar
1 C chicken broth
1 15 Oz can crushed tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
Season the meat with a little pepper. No salt. Wrap with the prosciutto and secure with a toothpick. In a large heavy skillet with a little olive oil, sear all sides until golden brown, about a minute each side. Add the onions, garlic, Roma tomatoes and figs and sauté a couple of minutes until the onions, tomatoes and figs are soft and aromatic. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar and chicken broth, scrapping any residue off the bottom. Mix in the canned tomatoes and fresh chopped basil. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes or so and the sauce is nice and thick. Serve over cooked couscous or angel hair pasta.
I honestly haven't tried it yet...tonight? Friday? We'll see.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
A Partidge in a Pear Tree
It’s December. Carols, presents, mistletoe and food, food, food, food, food! Thanksgiving is wonderful because of all the food, but it’s only one day. Christmas is one whole month of culinary dreaming and I mean more than visions of sugar plums dancing in my head.
One of the beauties of Christmas food is that, unlike the Thanksgiving feast, it is not limited to American fare. My brother-in-law Kurt’s ancestors are from Sweden. So my sister likes to cook a traditional Swedish yuletide smorgasbord for their Christmas. My grandfather Clarence spent three years in Germany so we love to nosh on some authentic German snacks like braunschweiger and liptaur cheese. When we lived in Santa Barbara, our holiday tradition was to drive up to Solvang. Seeing all the Scandinavian stores really made it feel like Christmas, even without the snow.
It’s neat to see all the various international Christmas traditions that differ from the ones we Americans inherited from England and Northern Europe. The Catalan folk in Spain have a Christmas tradition of making chocolates that look like…well, Baby Ruths come to mind. Think Mr. Hanky to you South Park fans. Yup, he’s real!
So, starting today (and hoping I can make it! If Julie Powel can do 365 days of Julia Child, then I think I can manage 12 days of Christmas!), I’m going to do a recipe a day to represent each of the 12 days in that immortal song. It was inspired by last years Christmas episode of Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competition. Each contestant drew a day and they had to prepare a dish corresponding to that particular day. So, here we go…Day one!
A Partridge in a Pear Tree
Cold Pheasant Salad with Baby Greens, Bleu Cheese, Fresh Pears and Hibiscus Champagne Pear Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette -
½ C Champagne Vinegar
1 12 Oz can Pear Nectar
2 C Olive Oil
4 Oz dried Hibiscus (found in Mexican section in the supermarket or in health food stores)
Dash salt
Warm the oil in a sauce pan, but don’t let it get hot! 200° F will be enough. Remove from heat and add all the hibiscus. Let it seep 12-24 hours. Strain into a seal-able jar.
Blend together the vinegar, nectar and salt. While the blender is on, slowly drizzle in just ONE cup of hibiscus infused oil. You can save the other cup for another time.
Salad -
1 lb cold, cooked Pheasant (or chicken), shredded
1 lb bag mixed baby greens
4 Oz bleu cheese crumbles (or Gorgonzola, Roquefort or Stilton)
2 fresh pears, cored and cubed
Mix everything together with the vinaigrette.
If you’re a hunter and can bag a nice pheasant (we have a couple lurking around out house) just roast it at 325° F until a meat thermometer reads 165° F, about 2 hours. Let it cool before pulling it apart. Sometimes you can find pheasant canned. Any poultry or fowl will do with this recipe!
One of the beauties of Christmas food is that, unlike the Thanksgiving feast, it is not limited to American fare. My brother-in-law Kurt’s ancestors are from Sweden. So my sister likes to cook a traditional Swedish yuletide smorgasbord for their Christmas. My grandfather Clarence spent three years in Germany so we love to nosh on some authentic German snacks like braunschweiger and liptaur cheese. When we lived in Santa Barbara, our holiday tradition was to drive up to Solvang. Seeing all the Scandinavian stores really made it feel like Christmas, even without the snow.
It’s neat to see all the various international Christmas traditions that differ from the ones we Americans inherited from England and Northern Europe. The Catalan folk in Spain have a Christmas tradition of making chocolates that look like…well, Baby Ruths come to mind. Think Mr. Hanky to you South Park fans. Yup, he’s real!
So, starting today (and hoping I can make it! If Julie Powel can do 365 days of Julia Child, then I think I can manage 12 days of Christmas!), I’m going to do a recipe a day to represent each of the 12 days in that immortal song. It was inspired by last years Christmas episode of Bravo Channel’s Top Chef competition. Each contestant drew a day and they had to prepare a dish corresponding to that particular day. So, here we go…Day one!
A Partridge in a Pear Tree
Cold Pheasant Salad with Baby Greens, Bleu Cheese, Fresh Pears and Hibiscus Champagne Pear Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette -
½ C Champagne Vinegar
1 12 Oz can Pear Nectar
2 C Olive Oil
4 Oz dried Hibiscus (found in Mexican section in the supermarket or in health food stores)
Dash salt
Warm the oil in a sauce pan, but don’t let it get hot! 200° F will be enough. Remove from heat and add all the hibiscus. Let it seep 12-24 hours. Strain into a seal-able jar.
Blend together the vinegar, nectar and salt. While the blender is on, slowly drizzle in just ONE cup of hibiscus infused oil. You can save the other cup for another time.
Salad -
1 lb cold, cooked Pheasant (or chicken), shredded
1 lb bag mixed baby greens
4 Oz bleu cheese crumbles (or Gorgonzola, Roquefort or Stilton)
2 fresh pears, cored and cubed
Mix everything together with the vinaigrette.
If you’re a hunter and can bag a nice pheasant (we have a couple lurking around out house) just roast it at 325° F until a meat thermometer reads 165° F, about 2 hours. Let it cool before pulling it apart. Sometimes you can find pheasant canned. Any poultry or fowl will do with this recipe!
Monday, November 30, 2009
Fusion Confusion
I hope you all had a delicious Thanksgiving. Mine was good except for one thing: left-over turkey. I can handle a couple days of left over turkey, but anything after that is overkill! Every year I tell my mother that we only need a breast and a couple legs which you can now buy separately, (Can you imagine if Mattel sold Barbie that way? “When I get my allowance next week, I’ll have enough saved up to buy Barbie another leg! And then next month, I’ll buy her some hair!” Retail price $19.95. Arms and legs sold separately.) but she doesn’t listen. She want’s the bones and giblets and all that. Can’t say I blame her, but still, I’m thankful that we’ll be having a ham for Christmas. Or a roast. I haven’t decided yet.
There are infinite things to do with left-over turkeys. Pretty much anything goes. Any recipe you have for chicken can easily be used to ‘make room in the fridge’, which is, as Lemony Snicket would say, “a phrase here that means, ‘making the turkey disappear.’ “ So you want recipes to help make your turkey left-overs disappear? Nuh-uh. Not gonna do it. Wouldn’t be prudent at this juncture. Whatever that means. All I know is I have my own 24 pound tom to digest.
So what about this “fusion” cooking I’ve been mentioning? We are a global community. It’s becoming more and more difficult to determine what is ethnic and what is the brainchild of some overzealous chef (Insert Avant Garde joke here…if you have one). Fusion is basically the combination of two cuisines. For example, when I was in Japan, in the city of Sendai, there was a Shakey’s Pizza. They had a pizza with usual Italian flare, but instead of anchovies there was ika. Or what the Italians call calamari. Yup. Squid Pizza. Another one had tuna. Cooked of course. Let’s not get carried away here.
You get the idea. Of course, fusion doesn’t have to be exotic or strange. One of my favorite cuisines is actually an unknown fusion of sorts - Southwestern. There are only two types of Southwestern cuisine: Sonoran and Santa Fe. Sorry Texas. No TexMex here. While it is fusion, I don’t consider it Southwestern. Or palatable for that matter. True Southwestern is Mexican with a Native American influence. In Santa Fe, the influence is on the Navajo, Apache and Pueblo style while with Sonoran, prominent in Arizona, the influence is more on the Mexican side. Both are heaven to me!
Ok so I have been thinking about fusion lately because I’ve had an idea. I know that some chefs like to use wanton wrappers for large tortellini or agnolotti (aka priest caps). So I’m thinking, what if I stuff my wantons with Christmas goodies like pumpkin pie filling, apple pie filling or how about a Crème Brule ? Or…or…or…Camembert with raspberry compote filling! Mmm! They’d work for postickers or shumai to! There’s Chinese bao buns stuffed with your favorite fruit instead of char su pork.
I once did a ravioli with a southwestern style. Instead of semolina, I used blue corn meal. I used chorizo instead of Italian sausage and I spiced up the marinara sauce with Mexican spices like cilantro, cumin, red chilies and lime and I garnished it with fresh diced avocado. Italian is actually one of the easiest foods to infuse! Everything goes with Italian!
There are infinite things to do with left-over turkeys. Pretty much anything goes. Any recipe you have for chicken can easily be used to ‘make room in the fridge’, which is, as Lemony Snicket would say, “a phrase here that means, ‘making the turkey disappear.’ “ So you want recipes to help make your turkey left-overs disappear? Nuh-uh. Not gonna do it. Wouldn’t be prudent at this juncture. Whatever that means. All I know is I have my own 24 pound tom to digest.
So what about this “fusion” cooking I’ve been mentioning? We are a global community. It’s becoming more and more difficult to determine what is ethnic and what is the brainchild of some overzealous chef (Insert Avant Garde joke here…if you have one). Fusion is basically the combination of two cuisines. For example, when I was in Japan, in the city of Sendai, there was a Shakey’s Pizza. They had a pizza with usual Italian flare, but instead of anchovies there was ika. Or what the Italians call calamari. Yup. Squid Pizza. Another one had tuna. Cooked of course. Let’s not get carried away here.
You get the idea. Of course, fusion doesn’t have to be exotic or strange. One of my favorite cuisines is actually an unknown fusion of sorts - Southwestern. There are only two types of Southwestern cuisine: Sonoran and Santa Fe. Sorry Texas. No TexMex here. While it is fusion, I don’t consider it Southwestern. Or palatable for that matter. True Southwestern is Mexican with a Native American influence. In Santa Fe, the influence is on the Navajo, Apache and Pueblo style while with Sonoran, prominent in Arizona, the influence is more on the Mexican side. Both are heaven to me!
Ok so I have been thinking about fusion lately because I’ve had an idea. I know that some chefs like to use wanton wrappers for large tortellini or agnolotti (aka priest caps). So I’m thinking, what if I stuff my wantons with Christmas goodies like pumpkin pie filling, apple pie filling or how about a Crème Brule ? Or…or…or…Camembert with raspberry compote filling! Mmm! They’d work for postickers or shumai to! There’s Chinese bao buns stuffed with your favorite fruit instead of char su pork.
I once did a ravioli with a southwestern style. Instead of semolina, I used blue corn meal. I used chorizo instead of Italian sausage and I spiced up the marinara sauce with Mexican spices like cilantro, cumin, red chilies and lime and I garnished it with fresh diced avocado. Italian is actually one of the easiest foods to infuse! Everything goes with Italian!
Monday, November 23, 2009
A turkey is a funny bird!
It’s that time, folks! One of my favorite times of the year! There are many, my birthday for example (duh!) but none deal with food like Thanksgiving (although it is tied with Christmas and Easter is a close 2nd). I have many things to be thankful for - friends, family, employment - but mostly I’m thankful that I’m blessed with the opportunity and the ability to enjoy good food!
So, here are some things to help you with your Thanksgiving day feast. Any questions or if you’d like other recipes (I have tons!), don’t hesitate to ask! (Just don’t call me at 1 AM Wednesday night as I’ll be asleep starting on my month long vision of dancing sugar plums!)
Turkeys:
According to Benjamin Franklin, turkeys are the perfect American symbol. His argument was the fact that the eagle is a sinister and voracious predator while the turkey is a reserved and simple forager as well as one of a few culinary saviors to the pilgrims who struggled to colonize the new world. While Dr. Franklin may have lost that vote, and I for one have to admit I'm glad he did, the turkey has still, nonetheless, become an American icon. America may lag behind such countries like Israel as far as turkey consumption per capita goes, but around the world, the turkey has become synonymous with America like the Roast Who-beast with Seuss’ Grinch.
So how does one go about choosing the perfect bird for Thanksgiving? There are a few simple tips to follow. For starters, bigger is better. According to Epicurious.com, figure about one pound per person, or more if you love having turkey sandwiches everyday for the month between then and your next turkey at Christmas (Why do we do that to ourselves?!). Hens are usually about 15 pounds or less. The big ones are the toms and they can be up to 25 pounds.
So, what exactly are you getting when buying a turkey? It's always a good idea to read the label. It's an even better idea to know what the label is telling you. Be sure to read the label carefully. If the label says “Fresh”, it doesn’t necessarily mean “fresh”. It just means that the turkey has been held at no less than 26° F. Frozen, of course, means 0° F and below and are favorites for graveyard stock boys on the PTBA - Pro Turkey-Bowlers Association. A turkey labeled “natural” means just that - no artificial anything; flavorings, colorings, moisturizing agents or otherwise. Be careful with turkeys labeled “self-basting”. They may not be “natural”. Free-range means the turkey had full access to the farmer's front yard. Organic turkeys are the same as free-range turkeys only without the possibility of steroids, artificial growth hormones or antibiotics.
Fresh turkey is always best. If you do get a frozen turkey, get it far enough in advance for it to be able to thaw out in the refrigerator, preferably on the bottom shelf in the back. Give it about five days or so to thaw. If you don’t have the time, let the turkey sit, fully submerged under water in your sink or bucket, changing the water every so often to keep bacteria from festering. Figure about 10 minutes per pound to thaw.
Honey-brined Roasted Turkey
1 19-20 pound turnkey, cleaned
4 quarts water
4 quarts cider vinegar
2 cups kosher salt
4 cups honey
6 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly smashed
2 tablespoons whole black pepper
1 sprig fresh rosemary
olive oil
Place a large garbage bag (at least 10 gallons) in a large stock pot. Mix the liquids and spices, except the olive oil, together in the bag until salt and honey dissolve. Place the cleaned turkey, without the gizzards, in the bag, making sure the turkey is completely covered by the brine. Seal up the bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. 18-24 hours is preferred.
Remove the turkey and let drain on a rack. Discard the brine. Rub a little olive oil (about 1 tablespoon per each side) on the breasts under the skin. Truss the turkey (although you shouldn't have to worry about this as most turkeys come pre-trussed, meaning the legs are tied). Place the turkey, breast down (this allows the fat to seep through the breast keeping it moist), on a rack in a roasting pan and tent loosely with foil. Roast at 350°, basting every 30 minutes after the first hour, until the internal temperature in the thigh reaches about 175°-180°, about 5-6 hours. Remove the foil for the last half hour. Let rest, breast side up, loosely tented on a platter, for at least 10-15 minutes before carving
Mashed Potatoes with Pears
5 pounds potatoes
1 C + 2 T butter or margarine, room temperature
4 large Bartlett pears, peeled and diced medium
1 can pear nectar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
1 C milk
Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft and very tender. While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a sauté pan. Add the pears and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the nectar and bring to a simmer, covered, reducing the heat to medium low and stirring occasionally, about 4-5 minutes. Let the pear mixture cool a little and then puree 3/4 the mixture.
Place the prepared sweet potatoes in a large mixing bowl. Add the pear mixture and remaining ingredients and beat on medium speed until creamy.
Sweet Potato Gratin
4 large sweet potatoes (4-4 1/2 pounds)
1 pound russet potatoes
3 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 1/2 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
Preheat oven to 400° Peel and slice thinly all potatoes, keeping them in cold water until needed. Place one layer of sweet potatoes in the bottom of a well-greased casserole pan. Sprinkle with one tablespoon onion, 1/2 tablespoon ginger and one table spoon sugar. Repeat with the russets but without the sugar. Finish with the remaining sweet potatoes and top off with the remaining onion, ginger and sugar. Mix the cream, melted butter, broth and nutmeg. Pour evenly over the potatoes. Cover with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake for 15 minutes until potatoes are tender and sauce thickens. Top with thyme and let sit for 10 minutes before service.
Wild Rice Sausage Corn Dressing
2 cups wild rice
1/2 pound ground Italian sausage
3 medium leeks, sliced, white parts only
4 ears of corn, shucked and cut
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
1 12 ounce can chicken broth
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
6 cups bread, cubed and dried
Bring salted water to a boil. Cook the wild rice in the boiling water for 15 minutes on medium heat. Drain and set aside.
Cook the Italian sausage about halfway on medium heat. Add the leeks and saute until tender and sausage is done. Add the cut corn and thyme and saute for another two minutes or so. Add the chicken broth and bring just to a simmer. Add the parsley, bread cubes and cooked wild rice, mixing well. Simmer covered on medium low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Nantucket Cranberry Sauce
3-4 oranges, squeezed (about 1 cup)
1 cup apple cider
1 tablespoon orange zest
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup molasses
2 packets of Knox Gelatin
1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries
Bring the cider to a simmer and dissolve the gelatin in the cider. Remove from heat. Grind up the cranberries in the food processor with the orange juice. Combine everything in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into a glass or plastic container and chill.
Turkey Pan Gravy
While the turkey is resting, pour two cups of water into the bottom of the roasting pan and scrap any residue and drippings from the turkey. Pour it all into a saucepan. Add one quart water and one quart chicken broth, the turkey neck and gizzards, two garlic cloves, two large sprigs of fresh thyme and one teaspoon whole peppercorns. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and let simmer for 15 minutes. While this is simmering, in a small sauté pan, melt ½ cup butter and whisk in a ½ cup flour until smooth. Simmer for about 2 minutes or so and remove from the heat. Strain the liquid, returning it to the pot and discarding the solids. Bring to a simmer and slowly whisk in the roux (the butter flour mixture) until thick and smooth. The longer the gravy simmers, the thicker it will get.
Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans
I mentioned this one a couple posts ago but it deserves another go.
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt one tablespoon of butter together with the olive oil. Sauté the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans, pecans and herbs. Sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.
Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup apple butter
1/2 cup brown sugar. packed
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
1 9 inch unbaked pie crust
Preheat oven to 375°. Combine pumpkin, apple butter, brown sugar, and spices. Gently mix in eggs. Stir in the cream. Pour evenly into the unbaked pie crust. It would be a good idea to cover the edges of the crust with foil. Bake for 25 minutes and then remove the foil. Bake for an additional 20-25 minutes or until pie is set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Cranberry Apple Pie
1 ready made pie crust
1 egg white
2 lbs medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3/4 cup frozen cranberries
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup gingersnap crumbs
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
4 tablespoons butter, melted
Preheat oven to 375°. Brush the entire inside of the crust with the egg white. Toss the apples and cranberries with the sugar, flour, cornstarch, orange zest and nutmeg. Spread the mixture evenly in the crust, pressing down. Mix the remaining ingredients and spread evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake on the bottom rack for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 10-15 minutes.
New York Pumpkin Cheesecake
3 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 15 ounce can pumpkin
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
7 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons rum
2 teaspoons nutmeg
Preheat oven to 375°. Place a large casserole dish, large enough for a 9 inch spring-form pan, with about a inch of water, into the oven.
Combine the crumbs, butter and pumpkin pie spice. Press evenly into spring-form pan. Bake for 5 minutes.
Combine the rest of the ingredients in a mixer and beat well. Pour evenly into the pan. Gently tap the pan on the counter so the filling settles. Wrap the outside with foil so it’s higher than the edge of the spring-form pan. Place it in the casserole pan of water in the oven. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300° and bake for an additional 45-50 minutes or until the center is set. Use the toothpick test. Turn off the oven but let the cake remain in the oven for about 30 minutes or so.
Happy Thanksgiving! … and I haven’t forgotten about the pumpkin fusion!
So, here are some things to help you with your Thanksgiving day feast. Any questions or if you’d like other recipes (I have tons!), don’t hesitate to ask! (Just don’t call me at 1 AM Wednesday night as I’ll be asleep starting on my month long vision of dancing sugar plums!)
Turkeys:
According to Benjamin Franklin, turkeys are the perfect American symbol. His argument was the fact that the eagle is a sinister and voracious predator while the turkey is a reserved and simple forager as well as one of a few culinary saviors to the pilgrims who struggled to colonize the new world. While Dr. Franklin may have lost that vote, and I for one have to admit I'm glad he did, the turkey has still, nonetheless, become an American icon. America may lag behind such countries like Israel as far as turkey consumption per capita goes, but around the world, the turkey has become synonymous with America like the Roast Who-beast with Seuss’ Grinch.
So how does one go about choosing the perfect bird for Thanksgiving? There are a few simple tips to follow. For starters, bigger is better. According to Epicurious.com, figure about one pound per person, or more if you love having turkey sandwiches everyday for the month between then and your next turkey at Christmas (Why do we do that to ourselves?!). Hens are usually about 15 pounds or less. The big ones are the toms and they can be up to 25 pounds.
So, what exactly are you getting when buying a turkey? It's always a good idea to read the label. It's an even better idea to know what the label is telling you. Be sure to read the label carefully. If the label says “Fresh”, it doesn’t necessarily mean “fresh”. It just means that the turkey has been held at no less than 26° F. Frozen, of course, means 0° F and below and are favorites for graveyard stock boys on the PTBA - Pro Turkey-Bowlers Association. A turkey labeled “natural” means just that - no artificial anything; flavorings, colorings, moisturizing agents or otherwise. Be careful with turkeys labeled “self-basting”. They may not be “natural”. Free-range means the turkey had full access to the farmer's front yard. Organic turkeys are the same as free-range turkeys only without the possibility of steroids, artificial growth hormones or antibiotics.
Fresh turkey is always best. If you do get a frozen turkey, get it far enough in advance for it to be able to thaw out in the refrigerator, preferably on the bottom shelf in the back. Give it about five days or so to thaw. If you don’t have the time, let the turkey sit, fully submerged under water in your sink or bucket, changing the water every so often to keep bacteria from festering. Figure about 10 minutes per pound to thaw.
Honey-brined Roasted Turkey
1 19-20 pound turnkey, cleaned
4 quarts water
4 quarts cider vinegar
2 cups kosher salt
4 cups honey
6 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly smashed
2 tablespoons whole black pepper
1 sprig fresh rosemary
olive oil
Place a large garbage bag (at least 10 gallons) in a large stock pot. Mix the liquids and spices, except the olive oil, together in the bag until salt and honey dissolve. Place the cleaned turkey, without the gizzards, in the bag, making sure the turkey is completely covered by the brine. Seal up the bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. 18-24 hours is preferred.
Remove the turkey and let drain on a rack. Discard the brine. Rub a little olive oil (about 1 tablespoon per each side) on the breasts under the skin. Truss the turkey (although you shouldn't have to worry about this as most turkeys come pre-trussed, meaning the legs are tied). Place the turkey, breast down (this allows the fat to seep through the breast keeping it moist), on a rack in a roasting pan and tent loosely with foil. Roast at 350°, basting every 30 minutes after the first hour, until the internal temperature in the thigh reaches about 175°-180°, about 5-6 hours. Remove the foil for the last half hour. Let rest, breast side up, loosely tented on a platter, for at least 10-15 minutes before carving
Mashed Potatoes with Pears
5 pounds potatoes
1 C + 2 T butter or margarine, room temperature
4 large Bartlett pears, peeled and diced medium
1 can pear nectar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
1 C milk
Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft and very tender. While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a sauté pan. Add the pears and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the nectar and bring to a simmer, covered, reducing the heat to medium low and stirring occasionally, about 4-5 minutes. Let the pear mixture cool a little and then puree 3/4 the mixture.
Place the prepared sweet potatoes in a large mixing bowl. Add the pear mixture and remaining ingredients and beat on medium speed until creamy.
Sweet Potato Gratin
4 large sweet potatoes (4-4 1/2 pounds)
1 pound russet potatoes
3 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 1/2 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
Preheat oven to 400° Peel and slice thinly all potatoes, keeping them in cold water until needed. Place one layer of sweet potatoes in the bottom of a well-greased casserole pan. Sprinkle with one tablespoon onion, 1/2 tablespoon ginger and one table spoon sugar. Repeat with the russets but without the sugar. Finish with the remaining sweet potatoes and top off with the remaining onion, ginger and sugar. Mix the cream, melted butter, broth and nutmeg. Pour evenly over the potatoes. Cover with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake for 15 minutes until potatoes are tender and sauce thickens. Top with thyme and let sit for 10 minutes before service.
Wild Rice Sausage Corn Dressing
2 cups wild rice
1/2 pound ground Italian sausage
3 medium leeks, sliced, white parts only
4 ears of corn, shucked and cut
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
1 12 ounce can chicken broth
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
6 cups bread, cubed and dried
Bring salted water to a boil. Cook the wild rice in the boiling water for 15 minutes on medium heat. Drain and set aside.
Cook the Italian sausage about halfway on medium heat. Add the leeks and saute until tender and sausage is done. Add the cut corn and thyme and saute for another two minutes or so. Add the chicken broth and bring just to a simmer. Add the parsley, bread cubes and cooked wild rice, mixing well. Simmer covered on medium low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Nantucket Cranberry Sauce
3-4 oranges, squeezed (about 1 cup)
1 cup apple cider
1 tablespoon orange zest
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup molasses
2 packets of Knox Gelatin
1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries
Bring the cider to a simmer and dissolve the gelatin in the cider. Remove from heat. Grind up the cranberries in the food processor with the orange juice. Combine everything in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into a glass or plastic container and chill.
Turkey Pan Gravy
While the turkey is resting, pour two cups of water into the bottom of the roasting pan and scrap any residue and drippings from the turkey. Pour it all into a saucepan. Add one quart water and one quart chicken broth, the turkey neck and gizzards, two garlic cloves, two large sprigs of fresh thyme and one teaspoon whole peppercorns. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and let simmer for 15 minutes. While this is simmering, in a small sauté pan, melt ½ cup butter and whisk in a ½ cup flour until smooth. Simmer for about 2 minutes or so and remove from the heat. Strain the liquid, returning it to the pot and discarding the solids. Bring to a simmer and slowly whisk in the roux (the butter flour mixture) until thick and smooth. The longer the gravy simmers, the thicker it will get.
Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans
I mentioned this one a couple posts ago but it deserves another go.
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt one tablespoon of butter together with the olive oil. Sauté the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans, pecans and herbs. Sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.
Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup apple butter
1/2 cup brown sugar. packed
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
1 9 inch unbaked pie crust
Preheat oven to 375°. Combine pumpkin, apple butter, brown sugar, and spices. Gently mix in eggs. Stir in the cream. Pour evenly into the unbaked pie crust. It would be a good idea to cover the edges of the crust with foil. Bake for 25 minutes and then remove the foil. Bake for an additional 20-25 minutes or until pie is set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Cranberry Apple Pie
1 ready made pie crust
1 egg white
2 lbs medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3/4 cup frozen cranberries
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup gingersnap crumbs
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
4 tablespoons butter, melted
Preheat oven to 375°. Brush the entire inside of the crust with the egg white. Toss the apples and cranberries with the sugar, flour, cornstarch, orange zest and nutmeg. Spread the mixture evenly in the crust, pressing down. Mix the remaining ingredients and spread evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake on the bottom rack for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 10-15 minutes.
New York Pumpkin Cheesecake
3 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 15 ounce can pumpkin
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
7 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons rum
2 teaspoons nutmeg
Preheat oven to 375°. Place a large casserole dish, large enough for a 9 inch spring-form pan, with about a inch of water, into the oven.
Combine the crumbs, butter and pumpkin pie spice. Press evenly into spring-form pan. Bake for 5 minutes.
Combine the rest of the ingredients in a mixer and beat well. Pour evenly into the pan. Gently tap the pan on the counter so the filling settles. Wrap the outside with foil so it’s higher than the edge of the spring-form pan. Place it in the casserole pan of water in the oven. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300° and bake for an additional 45-50 minutes or until the center is set. Use the toothpick test. Turn off the oven but let the cake remain in the oven for about 30 minutes or so.
Happy Thanksgiving! … and I haven’t forgotten about the pumpkin fusion!
Friday, November 20, 2009
The Great Pumpkin is AWOL
So I went to the store the other day to buy some pumpkins. It was just a few days after Halloween so I thought there’d still be some left, even if all that was left were the misshapen, blemished ones destined for the Island of Misfit Gourds. Think Charlie Brown and that tiny bare tree he rescued from the tree lot. Only this time, there was no Snoopy to save the day. Like Linus, I spent too much time in anticipation and not enough time in preparation. He sat and waited for the Great Pumpkin to arrive but forgot to prepare himself for the fact that the magical gourd might not come. I never took into account that there would be no pumpkins for sale after Halloween.
Why is it stores only sell pumpkins until Halloween? I understand the pre-occupation with Jack-o-lanterns. I was once a kid myself. But honestly, has our society devolved to the point where no one uses fresh pumpkin squash for anything? It’s Soyent Green all over again (if you ever see that movie, you may never eat again, ever!). I mean, canned pumpkin is ok, (store bought ready-made pie, not so much) but once you try using fresh pumpkin, you‘ll never see pumpkin pie in the same light again.
Maybe it‘s the daunting task of working with such a large vegetable. Maybe it’s the stringy slimy goop inside. Whatever the case may be, whatever your fears or trepidations, it’s a small price to pay for fresh pumpkin. Hopefully, these two methods that I use can make cooking with fresh pumpkin a little less arduous.
Method One: After discarding the seeds cut the pumpkin in half or quarters depending on how large the pumpkin is. Rub a little olive oil on the inside of each piece and place them skin down on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast for 30 minutes at 350° or until the pumpkin is soft and starting to brown. Cool completely. You should be able to peel the skin off easily. This method is best used for pumpkin pies, pureed soups and the such.
Method Two: I like this method best because it allows me to use pumpkin in more than one way, such as in savory dishes where I want the pumpkin squash to be soft, yet firm. It also allows me to prepare several pumpkins at a time and freeze them so I can have fresh pumpkin squash year round. After cleaning the pumpkin, cut it into thin wedges as you would a cantaloupe for your breakfast. Using either a steamer in the bottom of a large pot or a double broiler with a steamer, bring some water to a boil. Steam enough pumpkin for one container or plastic freezer bag at a time for 10 minutes. Cool the pumpkin in an ice water bath (called shocking) for at least 2 minutes or until completely cooled before placing the pumpkin in any freezer-safe container. Carefully cut the skin off each wedge like you would take the rind off a cantaloupe. They should last a couple months in the freezer if properly protected. There are unlimited possibilities with this one!
Well, I guess I’ll have to keep looking, or hope that pumpkins will be on sale again next week. There’s always butternut of course.
Why is it stores only sell pumpkins until Halloween? I understand the pre-occupation with Jack-o-lanterns. I was once a kid myself. But honestly, has our society devolved to the point where no one uses fresh pumpkin squash for anything? It’s Soyent Green all over again (if you ever see that movie, you may never eat again, ever!). I mean, canned pumpkin is ok, (store bought ready-made pie, not so much) but once you try using fresh pumpkin, you‘ll never see pumpkin pie in the same light again.
Maybe it‘s the daunting task of working with such a large vegetable. Maybe it’s the stringy slimy goop inside. Whatever the case may be, whatever your fears or trepidations, it’s a small price to pay for fresh pumpkin. Hopefully, these two methods that I use can make cooking with fresh pumpkin a little less arduous.
Method One: After discarding the seeds cut the pumpkin in half or quarters depending on how large the pumpkin is. Rub a little olive oil on the inside of each piece and place them skin down on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast for 30 minutes at 350° or until the pumpkin is soft and starting to brown. Cool completely. You should be able to peel the skin off easily. This method is best used for pumpkin pies, pureed soups and the such.
Method Two: I like this method best because it allows me to use pumpkin in more than one way, such as in savory dishes where I want the pumpkin squash to be soft, yet firm. It also allows me to prepare several pumpkins at a time and freeze them so I can have fresh pumpkin squash year round. After cleaning the pumpkin, cut it into thin wedges as you would a cantaloupe for your breakfast. Using either a steamer in the bottom of a large pot or a double broiler with a steamer, bring some water to a boil. Steam enough pumpkin for one container or plastic freezer bag at a time for 10 minutes. Cool the pumpkin in an ice water bath (called shocking) for at least 2 minutes or until completely cooled before placing the pumpkin in any freezer-safe container. Carefully cut the skin off each wedge like you would take the rind off a cantaloupe. They should last a couple months in the freezer if properly protected. There are unlimited possibilities with this one!
Well, I guess I’ll have to keep looking, or hope that pumpkins will be on sale again next week. There’s always butternut of course.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown!
The peach tree still stands, for now. I think I’ll wait until my mother has actually ordered the new peach tree until I cut down the old one. (And, no, Sarah, you can’t ‘gift’ me one from Farmville. I need a REAL peach tree!)
The air is crisp and noticeably colder. The Autumnal Equinox has come and gone. Our lawn is covered in inches of yellow and orange leaves. (Dang it, now I have to rake!) The mountain peaks received the first snow of the year. That’s good for the pears and great for the apples. Disastrous for the peaches. By this time of the year, the peaches start to get overripe making them dry, pasty and flavorless. I bought a couple at the grocery store the other day. They were nice and firm and out of season. I didn’t even try the second one. Nasty.
I went to a party the other day with some friends from Santa Barbara. It was a potluck affair which I always enjoy, not for the sake of showing off, but for the chance to try everything. Ah, the sacrifices we make! Someone brought a very interesting fruit salad that would be great in the summer. Watermelon, peaches, pears and apples. All fresh. Nothing canned. Quite yummy. Very depressing. Had there been strawberries, I might have cried. It’s not that I don’t like fall. Ok, I don’t like fall. I just love summer more.
But I will admit one thing that I am excited about. Pumpkins! Like Linus van Pelt, I am a believer in The Great Pumpkin. When the first of October rolls around, I quiver in anticipation of those grand gourds. (Actually I quiver in the cold air. I am a cold blooded desert lizard, after all) They are proof positive that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
When the pilgrims arrived at Plymouth Rock, pumpkins, along with corn and lobsters, were considered peasant food fit only for livestock feed by these Old World folk. Thanks to near disastrous winters and the kindness of neighboring Natives, the Pilgrims humbled themselves and pumpkins became the symbol of American cuisine.
Unfortunately, we seem to have relegated pumpkins to only pies and jack-o-lanterns to be smashed on Halloween night by tricking teens. There is so much more to pumpkins than being sacrificed to an overgrown kid in a plastic Power Rangers mask. Here are some examples -
Pumpkin Corn Chowder
6 slices bacon, chopped
1 large onion, diced
2 medium potatoes chopped medium
2 cups peeled and chopped butternut, acorn or pumpkin squash
3 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
2 cups frozen corn
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons minced parsley
2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons flour
In a 2 quart sauce pan, cook the bacon until almost crisp. Add the onions and sauté until opaque and tender. Add the potatoes, squash, water and salt and pepper, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the corn, thyme and parsley. Whisk the cream and flour in a separate bowl until smooth. Whisk the cream/flour mixture into the soup and simmer until thick.
Wild Field Greens with Pumpkin Squash and Maple Cider Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup (or 1/4 cup imitation plus 1 teaspoon maple extract)
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup olive oil
Mix the ingredients, except the oil, together in a blender. Slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture in the blender while blending on medium high.
Salad:
Mixed greens
1 small (2-3 pounds) pumpkin (or acorn or butternut squash)
3 fresh corn, uncooked, shucked and shelled
1 pint red tear-drop tomatoes (or grape tomatoes), halved
1 bunch small green onions, chopped
Cut the pumpkin in half. Clean out the seeds and cut into wedges. Bring water in a steamer to a boil and steam the pumpkin wedges until tender but still firm, about 5 minutes. Chill in an ice water bath immediately. Drain well. Peel the skin off the wedges and cut the pumpkin into cubes. Mix all of the ingredients together with the greens. At time of service, add the vinaigrette and toss well.
Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt the butter together with the olive oil. Sauté the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans and herbs. Sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.
MM - I’m salivating already! Next week - fusion cooking with Pumpkins!!!
The air is crisp and noticeably colder. The Autumnal Equinox has come and gone. Our lawn is covered in inches of yellow and orange leaves. (Dang it, now I have to rake!) The mountain peaks received the first snow of the year. That’s good for the pears and great for the apples. Disastrous for the peaches. By this time of the year, the peaches start to get overripe making them dry, pasty and flavorless. I bought a couple at the grocery store the other day. They were nice and firm and out of season. I didn’t even try the second one. Nasty.
I went to a party the other day with some friends from Santa Barbara. It was a potluck affair which I always enjoy, not for the sake of showing off, but for the chance to try everything. Ah, the sacrifices we make! Someone brought a very interesting fruit salad that would be great in the summer. Watermelon, peaches, pears and apples. All fresh. Nothing canned. Quite yummy. Very depressing. Had there been strawberries, I might have cried. It’s not that I don’t like fall. Ok, I don’t like fall. I just love summer more.
But I will admit one thing that I am excited about. Pumpkins! Like Linus van Pelt, I am a believer in The Great Pumpkin. When the first of October rolls around, I quiver in anticipation of those grand gourds. (Actually I quiver in the cold air. I am a cold blooded desert lizard, after all) They are proof positive that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
When the pilgrims arrived at Plymouth Rock, pumpkins, along with corn and lobsters, were considered peasant food fit only for livestock feed by these Old World folk. Thanks to near disastrous winters and the kindness of neighboring Natives, the Pilgrims humbled themselves and pumpkins became the symbol of American cuisine.
Unfortunately, we seem to have relegated pumpkins to only pies and jack-o-lanterns to be smashed on Halloween night by tricking teens. There is so much more to pumpkins than being sacrificed to an overgrown kid in a plastic Power Rangers mask. Here are some examples -
Pumpkin Corn Chowder
6 slices bacon, chopped
1 large onion, diced
2 medium potatoes chopped medium
2 cups peeled and chopped butternut, acorn or pumpkin squash
3 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
2 cups frozen corn
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme
2 tablespoons minced parsley
2 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons flour
In a 2 quart sauce pan, cook the bacon until almost crisp. Add the onions and sauté until opaque and tender. Add the potatoes, squash, water and salt and pepper, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the corn, thyme and parsley. Whisk the cream and flour in a separate bowl until smooth. Whisk the cream/flour mixture into the soup and simmer until thick.
Wild Field Greens with Pumpkin Squash and Maple Cider Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup (or 1/4 cup imitation plus 1 teaspoon maple extract)
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup olive oil
Mix the ingredients, except the oil, together in a blender. Slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture in the blender while blending on medium high.
Salad:
Mixed greens
1 small (2-3 pounds) pumpkin (or acorn or butternut squash)
3 fresh corn, uncooked, shucked and shelled
1 pint red tear-drop tomatoes (or grape tomatoes), halved
1 bunch small green onions, chopped
Cut the pumpkin in half. Clean out the seeds and cut into wedges. Bring water in a steamer to a boil and steam the pumpkin wedges until tender but still firm, about 5 minutes. Chill in an ice water bath immediately. Drain well. Peel the skin off the wedges and cut the pumpkin into cubes. Mix all of the ingredients together with the greens. At time of service, add the vinaigrette and toss well.
Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt the butter together with the olive oil. Sauté the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans and herbs. Sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.
MM - I’m salivating already! Next week - fusion cooking with Pumpkins!!!
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Life's a peach and then you eat one
Wow. Has it really been that long? There I was, celebrating New Years and I could’ve sworn all I did was blink and it was St. Patrick’s day. I blinked again and it was summer. Now summer’s gone. I’ve got to quit blinking.
I know it’s nearing the end of summer, not because the days are getting longer or because I can actually go to the mall without being overrun by hoards of pre-pubescent (and some post-pubescent who act like pre-pubescent) kids escaping from their upcoming scholastic duties (Huckleberry Hound where are you!!??). Rather, I can tell summer’s drawing to a close because of the harvest. No more strawberries. No more watermelons. No more corn. No more peaches.
We have four trees in our back yard next to our so-called garden; two apple, one pear and an octogenarian peach on it’s deathbed. The pear and apples trees are overburdened but doing fine. They are so full of fruit, their branches are touching the ground. I need to do some serious pruning in the Spring. Those trees I’m not worried about. The fruit won’t be ready until just after the first cold snap to seal in the sugar. By then I’ll have lost at least half to deer, birds and worms. No biggie. There’s enough for all. What’s left or falls on the ground, I throw on my compost heap for next year’s garden.
It’s the peach tree I’m worried about. It’s been sick and dying since I moved in about eight years ago. About three or four years ago we pruned off all the dead branches, leaving just one still alive and producing leaves, but no buds. It looked like a natural born flagpole. My mom intended to have it cut down completely if it didn’t produce fruit. Low and behold, the next spring brought us about ten small, barely edible peaches, resulting in a stay of execution from the Governess.
Each Spring she threatens to call someone to have it cut down and each spring I convince her that as long as one branch still produces fruit, there’s no reason to cut it down. The last few Springs the tree has come through, producing more and larger fruit than the previous Spring. An arboreal mid-life crisis maybe? This year it produced probably as many as three dozen or so peaches. Even my mom was impressed. Unfortunately, we lost all of them. All appeals exhausted, not even the Governess can help the tree now. It is to be replaced next Spring by a younger, healthy tree, provided I don’t inadvertently kill it with my brown thumb.
I do love peaches. Fresh. Canned. Freshly canned. Georgia peaces, California peaches, Arizona peaches, James and the Giant Peach. I once ate a Georgia peach that was so big I felt like James. It was huge! And was it ripe! I’m talking dripping-down-your-chin-sticky-hands juicy!
One project I’ve been working on lately is recipes for kids. In the last decade, thanks to authors like J.K. Rowling and Lemony Snicket, there’s been a renaissance of children’s books. A lot of them have included food. In the Harry Potter series alone there has to be at least 150 different dishes with about 90% being real British cuisine.
So I researched about 40 or so different kids books to see foods. I read everything from Eragon and The City of Ember to Chronicles of Narnia and Wind in the Willows. James was on the list too. All that was mentioned was the fizzy lemonade the wicked aunts drank. But did that stop me? NO! Like I said, I love peaches! There’s so many things you can do with peaches! There’s peach ice cream, peaches and cream, peach punch, peach fritters, peach tarts, peach pasties, peach lassi, peach Jell-o, peach jam, pickled peaches, and let’s not forget my great-grandmother’s famous peach brandy. So, all month, I’ll give you a peach recipe. It will be my version of the “Julie/Julia Project”. And here’s the first one -
PEACHES AND CREAM
1 lb fresh peaches
1 pint sour cream
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
granola
De-pit the peaches and slice into wedges. You can peel them first, or leave the skin on. Your choice. Combine the rest of the ingredients except the granola. Divide the sliced peaches evenly among four bowls. Top with cream and sprinkle with granola.
And don’t worry…pumpkins are just around the corner!
I know it’s nearing the end of summer, not because the days are getting longer or because I can actually go to the mall without being overrun by hoards of pre-pubescent (and some post-pubescent who act like pre-pubescent) kids escaping from their upcoming scholastic duties (Huckleberry Hound where are you!!??). Rather, I can tell summer’s drawing to a close because of the harvest. No more strawberries. No more watermelons. No more corn. No more peaches.
We have four trees in our back yard next to our so-called garden; two apple, one pear and an octogenarian peach on it’s deathbed. The pear and apples trees are overburdened but doing fine. They are so full of fruit, their branches are touching the ground. I need to do some serious pruning in the Spring. Those trees I’m not worried about. The fruit won’t be ready until just after the first cold snap to seal in the sugar. By then I’ll have lost at least half to deer, birds and worms. No biggie. There’s enough for all. What’s left or falls on the ground, I throw on my compost heap for next year’s garden.
It’s the peach tree I’m worried about. It’s been sick and dying since I moved in about eight years ago. About three or four years ago we pruned off all the dead branches, leaving just one still alive and producing leaves, but no buds. It looked like a natural born flagpole. My mom intended to have it cut down completely if it didn’t produce fruit. Low and behold, the next spring brought us about ten small, barely edible peaches, resulting in a stay of execution from the Governess.
Each Spring she threatens to call someone to have it cut down and each spring I convince her that as long as one branch still produces fruit, there’s no reason to cut it down. The last few Springs the tree has come through, producing more and larger fruit than the previous Spring. An arboreal mid-life crisis maybe? This year it produced probably as many as three dozen or so peaches. Even my mom was impressed. Unfortunately, we lost all of them. All appeals exhausted, not even the Governess can help the tree now. It is to be replaced next Spring by a younger, healthy tree, provided I don’t inadvertently kill it with my brown thumb.
I do love peaches. Fresh. Canned. Freshly canned. Georgia peaces, California peaches, Arizona peaches, James and the Giant Peach. I once ate a Georgia peach that was so big I felt like James. It was huge! And was it ripe! I’m talking dripping-down-your-chin-sticky-hands juicy!
One project I’ve been working on lately is recipes for kids. In the last decade, thanks to authors like J.K. Rowling and Lemony Snicket, there’s been a renaissance of children’s books. A lot of them have included food. In the Harry Potter series alone there has to be at least 150 different dishes with about 90% being real British cuisine.
So I researched about 40 or so different kids books to see foods. I read everything from Eragon and The City of Ember to Chronicles of Narnia and Wind in the Willows. James was on the list too. All that was mentioned was the fizzy lemonade the wicked aunts drank. But did that stop me? NO! Like I said, I love peaches! There’s so many things you can do with peaches! There’s peach ice cream, peaches and cream, peach punch, peach fritters, peach tarts, peach pasties, peach lassi, peach Jell-o, peach jam, pickled peaches, and let’s not forget my great-grandmother’s famous peach brandy. So, all month, I’ll give you a peach recipe. It will be my version of the “Julie/Julia Project”. And here’s the first one -
PEACHES AND CREAM
1 lb fresh peaches
1 pint sour cream
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon ginger
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
granola
De-pit the peaches and slice into wedges. You can peel them first, or leave the skin on. Your choice. Combine the rest of the ingredients except the granola. Divide the sliced peaches evenly among four bowls. Top with cream and sprinkle with granola.
And don’t worry…pumpkins are just around the corner!
Monday, June 22, 2009
Just What Dr. Bubba Ordered
It’s no secret that I love Dr. Pepper. I would even go so far as to call myself a complete soda aficionado. I like to think that as an adult I don’t drink as much soda as I did when I was a child but what can I say? It’s in my blood. No seriously. It’s in my blood. That’s right. My blood is carbonated. Haha. No, just kidding. If that was true then I’d be dead and this would really be a cool blog, then. Besides, my body heat would diffuse the bubbles before they hit the bloodstream.
But seriously, folks. Soda is another family culinary icon at our house. Remember George Bailey, that loveable banker who had many friends and helped many under-privileged people finance homes in Bailey Estates? His friends all called him Jimmy Stewart. (Papa Dollar, meet Mama Dollar. Wouldn’t that be nice if it were true?) In the movie, George worked the ice cream counter in front of a pharmacy. That was my grandfather and his brothers. They grew up working the counter, cooking the hamburgers and mixing the sodas by hand.
Growing up, every Saturday was Hamburger day. You could tell my grandfather still had the skills from his days at the pharmacy. Of course. there were always potato chips, Jell-O, salad, ice cream and, of course, two large ice chests full of soda. If memory serves me right, (it never does) I would eat two hamburgers, a handful of chips, lots of Jell-O and at least 4 cans of soda.
There’s not a whole lot that can’t be done with soda. I once took a pear, peeled it, cored it, cut it in half and soaked it overnight in a bowl of Sprite with a few drops of mint extract and green food coloring. The next day I let the pears drain and dipped them in some chocolate sauce. Once the chocolate set, I topped it with a scoop of mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Mmm.
One of the best examples of cooking with soda, however comes from none other than the Maestro, herself - Julia Child. I read somewhere (there’s that reliable memory again) that, while filming an episode of her famous, and very live, show, she did something that simply showed her coolness under pressure. They had gone to a commercial break, and one of the stage hands had gone onto the set to talk to Julia, taking with him his can of Pepsi. Towards the end of the break, the stage hand left, but forgot and left his Pepsi on the counter, in full view of the cameras. It wasn’t noticed until Julia was back on the air. She simply picked up the can and said, “Sometimes I like to add some Pepsi to the sauce and give it a nice sweetness,.” Or something like that. (And memory strikes out again. Rumor has it that if he doesn’t find his groove, Whitey’s gonna send him down to Triple-A).
Anyway, so imagine my joy when I discovered that someone, somewhere thinks like me. (wonder if she’s cute?) I saw an ad for Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce. I just had to have some. Unfortunately, this being Utah, I couldn’t find it anywhere. I even tried the Jell-O aisle. Then I thought, what am I doing? I’m a chef! I felt like Hermione Granger wondering how she’s going to light a fire when she doesn’t have a match. Like Ron told her, “Are you, or are you not, a WITCH!” Well, no. I’m not. I’d be a wizard. But you get my point.
So I experimented at least 3 times. Nothing. Just horrible messes. I finally gave in to what I knew was the problem. Ketchup. I can’t stand ketchup. I do everything I can to stay away from it. There’s so many different kinds of sauces and condiments out in the world, why waste good food on ketchup? But I was not having success with my Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce. I gave in. I had no choice. Plain tomato sauce just wasn’t cutting it. And wouldn’t you know it, ketchup saved the day. Well, saved the sauce anyway.
But I wasn’t quite satisfied. I had nothing to compare against my sauce. But I have such wonderful friends! One friend sent me a message saying she had seen the sauce at a particular supermarket. So there I went, and there it was in all its Dr. Pepper glory. (They also had A&W!) I bought a bottle and some country ribs. I get home and got cooking. I seasoned the ribs and got them nice and brown. I poured in a can of beef stock, covered and turned the heat to low. They’re simmering for an hour. Nice and tender. I dish it all up with potatoes and coleslaw, badda bing, badda boom, badda BBQ. I give everyone a sample of both mine and the bottled sauces. (Well, my brother doesn’t count really. He’ll eat anything…really) The consensus? No comparison. My sauce was best. Not that my sauce was spectacular or anything like that. It’s just that the bottled stuff wasn’t that good. It was too thick and too full of preservatives among other things.
So, here it is:
One 20 oz bottle Dr. Pepper (the new Cherry Dr. Pepper would work or even A&W)
½ C lemon juice
1 C ketchup
1 tsp fresh minced garlic
2 T dry chopped onions
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp Tabasco sauce
1 tsp dry basil
3 T Worcestershire sauce
2 T steak sauce (like A-1)
½ tsp liquid smoke
Combine everything together in a sauce pan. Slowly bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and let simmer for 30 minutes. If you like the sauce a little thicker you can add some corn starch mixed with a little water.
But seriously, folks. Soda is another family culinary icon at our house. Remember George Bailey, that loveable banker who had many friends and helped many under-privileged people finance homes in Bailey Estates? His friends all called him Jimmy Stewart. (Papa Dollar, meet Mama Dollar. Wouldn’t that be nice if it were true?) In the movie, George worked the ice cream counter in front of a pharmacy. That was my grandfather and his brothers. They grew up working the counter, cooking the hamburgers and mixing the sodas by hand.
Growing up, every Saturday was Hamburger day. You could tell my grandfather still had the skills from his days at the pharmacy. Of course. there were always potato chips, Jell-O, salad, ice cream and, of course, two large ice chests full of soda. If memory serves me right, (it never does) I would eat two hamburgers, a handful of chips, lots of Jell-O and at least 4 cans of soda.
There’s not a whole lot that can’t be done with soda. I once took a pear, peeled it, cored it, cut it in half and soaked it overnight in a bowl of Sprite with a few drops of mint extract and green food coloring. The next day I let the pears drain and dipped them in some chocolate sauce. Once the chocolate set, I topped it with a scoop of mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Mmm.
One of the best examples of cooking with soda, however comes from none other than the Maestro, herself - Julia Child. I read somewhere (there’s that reliable memory again) that, while filming an episode of her famous, and very live, show, she did something that simply showed her coolness under pressure. They had gone to a commercial break, and one of the stage hands had gone onto the set to talk to Julia, taking with him his can of Pepsi. Towards the end of the break, the stage hand left, but forgot and left his Pepsi on the counter, in full view of the cameras. It wasn’t noticed until Julia was back on the air. She simply picked up the can and said, “Sometimes I like to add some Pepsi to the sauce and give it a nice sweetness,.” Or something like that. (And memory strikes out again. Rumor has it that if he doesn’t find his groove, Whitey’s gonna send him down to Triple-A).
Anyway, so imagine my joy when I discovered that someone, somewhere thinks like me. (wonder if she’s cute?) I saw an ad for Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce. I just had to have some. Unfortunately, this being Utah, I couldn’t find it anywhere. I even tried the Jell-O aisle. Then I thought, what am I doing? I’m a chef! I felt like Hermione Granger wondering how she’s going to light a fire when she doesn’t have a match. Like Ron told her, “Are you, or are you not, a WITCH!” Well, no. I’m not. I’d be a wizard. But you get my point.
So I experimented at least 3 times. Nothing. Just horrible messes. I finally gave in to what I knew was the problem. Ketchup. I can’t stand ketchup. I do everything I can to stay away from it. There’s so many different kinds of sauces and condiments out in the world, why waste good food on ketchup? But I was not having success with my Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce. I gave in. I had no choice. Plain tomato sauce just wasn’t cutting it. And wouldn’t you know it, ketchup saved the day. Well, saved the sauce anyway.
But I wasn’t quite satisfied. I had nothing to compare against my sauce. But I have such wonderful friends! One friend sent me a message saying she had seen the sauce at a particular supermarket. So there I went, and there it was in all its Dr. Pepper glory. (They also had A&W!) I bought a bottle and some country ribs. I get home and got cooking. I seasoned the ribs and got them nice and brown. I poured in a can of beef stock, covered and turned the heat to low. They’re simmering for an hour. Nice and tender. I dish it all up with potatoes and coleslaw, badda bing, badda boom, badda BBQ. I give everyone a sample of both mine and the bottled sauces. (Well, my brother doesn’t count really. He’ll eat anything…really) The consensus? No comparison. My sauce was best. Not that my sauce was spectacular or anything like that. It’s just that the bottled stuff wasn’t that good. It was too thick and too full of preservatives among other things.
So, here it is:
One 20 oz bottle Dr. Pepper (the new Cherry Dr. Pepper would work or even A&W)
½ C lemon juice
1 C ketchup
1 tsp fresh minced garlic
2 T dry chopped onions
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
¼ tsp Tabasco sauce
1 tsp dry basil
3 T Worcestershire sauce
2 T steak sauce (like A-1)
½ tsp liquid smoke
Combine everything together in a sauce pan. Slowly bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and let simmer for 30 minutes. If you like the sauce a little thicker you can add some corn starch mixed with a little water.
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Paging Dr. Bubba
Ok. Either my plumbing is clogged or this world is moving WAY too fast. Didn’t we just celebrate New Years? I think I just barely finished digesting Christmas dinner and it’s already summer . Well, actually summer doesn’t officially arrive until Summer Solstice on June 21st, but where I’m from summer can start as early as the first week of April.
Anyway, I should know this because that’s the day after my birthday (hint, hint). Yes, I’m a spring baby, barely. My mom tells me that I was born so fast the doctor didn’t believe I was on the way. So, I was born in the hallway around 10 at night. I think it’s because I wanted to be born a Spring baby, which is weird because I love summer.
No school. Everyday is a Saturday (which only works if you’re a kid). Swimming in pools and lakes (You can tell when someone is a native of Arizona because they‘re amazed that a river has water!). Drinking up gallons of lemonade (of all different flavors, of course), and more importantly - NO SNOW! Ok, so that’s not the most important thing about summer, but it works for me. Actually, the most important thing about summer is Barbeques.
I’m not talking about hamburgers and hot dogs, either. I’m talking about juicy, succulent, mouth-watering, smoke infused, sizzling heaven. Many indeed claim it as their religion. They brave near frigid weather in the stadium parking lots in the fall, or scorching backyard heat in the summer. They’ll fire up the grill for grandma’s Christmas fruitcake if they felt it would help. Others take it to the other extreme. They’re the ones who have everything to an exact science. The heat has to be exactly right, the meat marinated just long enough, and the grill is never cleaned to insure the perfect seasoning. And then there are the grillers in the middle - the religious scientists. Or the scientific religion. The Scien-gion. Naw, I’m just kidding.
But seriously. The religious BBQ fanatics usually hail from the North. I call them Packer fans. They don’t care what you grill as long as it’s grilled. Usually sausages - bratwursts and the like. The scientists come from the South. I call them Dr. Bubbas. And like real scientists with real science degrees, BBQ recipes vary depending on the region and it’s not uncommon to find the formulas closely guarded secrets.
To the rest of the country, BBQ is as BBQ does. We don’t care. Just throw some meat on the grill, slap some sauce from a bottle on it and there ya go. Packer and Bubba would never think of putting salmon on the grill and yet in Seattle it’s as common as buying a new umbrella because the last one wore out after fifty straight days of rain.
What we in the west associate with BBQ, particularly the sauce, is actually more of a Texas style BBQ, or what I call Generic Dr. Bubba. Compared to sauces from other regions, there’s really not a whole lot to it. There’s also Memphis, St. Louis, Kansas City, Carolinas, Deep South, just to name a region or two.Each region has its own style, its own signature. Even Santa Maria, California has it’s own style.
Many of the sauces have similarities which sometimes makes it hard to distinguish the different regions. For example, Memphis, Kansas City and the Carolinas all use a lot of mustard compared to others. But Memphis is more sweet while Kansas City is more tangy and the Carolinas don’t use tomatoes at all. Also, Memphis, Kansas City and St. Louis are more about the ribs while the Carolinas and Deep South are more about slow smoked pulled pork. Whew! It’s kind of convolutedly complex. (is that even a word?)
For you recipe hounds, I’ve included several BBQ sauce recipes -
Generic Dr. Bubba BBQ Sauce
1 cup chopped onion (1 medium-sized)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/4 cup cider vinegar1 quart tomato sauce
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup molasses
1/2 tablespoon salt
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tablespoon Liquid BBQ Smoke
1/4 cup bourbon (optional)
In a large sauce pan, sauté the onions in a little olive oil. Add the garlic and mustard and sweat forjust a minute until nice and aromatic. Add the next four ingredients, mix well. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for about 1 hour. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for another hour. Strain well. Pour into an airtight container and chill.
This next one is my favorite. It’s meant specifically for pulled pork. You can do pulled pork easily in the oven. Season a pork roast (about 2-3 lbs) with any rub you like. Rap it tightly twice with plastic wrap and twice with foil so there are no seams. Don’t worry the plastic won’t melt. Then roast it for at least 3 hours at 250° F. Shred it finely with a pair of forks.
Carolina BBQ Glaze
2 cups molasses
1 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon crushed chili
2 tablespoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
1 teaspoon pepper
Mix the ingredients well in a large saucepan. Bring just to a boil and remove from the heat. Mix with the pulled pork and let sit for 15 minutes or so. Put some pork on a bun and top with coleslaw.
This sauce is the quintessential Carolina sauce. Brush it on your ribs while they’re on the grill, toss your chicken wings in it or dunk you fried chicken.
Carolina Moppin’ Sauce
1 C mustard
¼ C honey
½ C molasses
¼ C cider vinegar
¼ tsp each thyme, oregano and black pepper
Dash of Cayenne pepper
2 T Olive oil
All you need to do is whisk everything together in a bowl. You could even try using Dijon mustard.
So here’s hoping you have a great BBQ season! As for me…I’m going to see if I can decipher the Dr. Bubba code.
Anyway, I should know this because that’s the day after my birthday (hint, hint). Yes, I’m a spring baby, barely. My mom tells me that I was born so fast the doctor didn’t believe I was on the way. So, I was born in the hallway around 10 at night. I think it’s because I wanted to be born a Spring baby, which is weird because I love summer.
No school. Everyday is a Saturday (which only works if you’re a kid). Swimming in pools and lakes (You can tell when someone is a native of Arizona because they‘re amazed that a river has water!). Drinking up gallons of lemonade (of all different flavors, of course), and more importantly - NO SNOW! Ok, so that’s not the most important thing about summer, but it works for me. Actually, the most important thing about summer is Barbeques.
I’m not talking about hamburgers and hot dogs, either. I’m talking about juicy, succulent, mouth-watering, smoke infused, sizzling heaven. Many indeed claim it as their religion. They brave near frigid weather in the stadium parking lots in the fall, or scorching backyard heat in the summer. They’ll fire up the grill for grandma’s Christmas fruitcake if they felt it would help. Others take it to the other extreme. They’re the ones who have everything to an exact science. The heat has to be exactly right, the meat marinated just long enough, and the grill is never cleaned to insure the perfect seasoning. And then there are the grillers in the middle - the religious scientists. Or the scientific religion. The Scien-gion. Naw, I’m just kidding.
But seriously. The religious BBQ fanatics usually hail from the North. I call them Packer fans. They don’t care what you grill as long as it’s grilled. Usually sausages - bratwursts and the like. The scientists come from the South. I call them Dr. Bubbas. And like real scientists with real science degrees, BBQ recipes vary depending on the region and it’s not uncommon to find the formulas closely guarded secrets.
To the rest of the country, BBQ is as BBQ does. We don’t care. Just throw some meat on the grill, slap some sauce from a bottle on it and there ya go. Packer and Bubba would never think of putting salmon on the grill and yet in Seattle it’s as common as buying a new umbrella because the last one wore out after fifty straight days of rain.
What we in the west associate with BBQ, particularly the sauce, is actually more of a Texas style BBQ, or what I call Generic Dr. Bubba. Compared to sauces from other regions, there’s really not a whole lot to it. There’s also Memphis, St. Louis, Kansas City, Carolinas, Deep South, just to name a region or two.Each region has its own style, its own signature. Even Santa Maria, California has it’s own style.
Many of the sauces have similarities which sometimes makes it hard to distinguish the different regions. For example, Memphis, Kansas City and the Carolinas all use a lot of mustard compared to others. But Memphis is more sweet while Kansas City is more tangy and the Carolinas don’t use tomatoes at all. Also, Memphis, Kansas City and St. Louis are more about the ribs while the Carolinas and Deep South are more about slow smoked pulled pork. Whew! It’s kind of convolutedly complex. (is that even a word?)
For you recipe hounds, I’ve included several BBQ sauce recipes -
Generic Dr. Bubba BBQ Sauce
1 cup chopped onion (1 medium-sized)
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/4 cup cider vinegar1 quart tomato sauce
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 cup molasses
1/2 tablespoon salt
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce
1/4 tablespoon Liquid BBQ Smoke
1/4 cup bourbon (optional)
In a large sauce pan, sauté the onions in a little olive oil. Add the garlic and mustard and sweat forjust a minute until nice and aromatic. Add the next four ingredients, mix well. Reduce the heat to low and simmer covered for about 1 hour. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for another hour. Strain well. Pour into an airtight container and chill.
This next one is my favorite. It’s meant specifically for pulled pork. You can do pulled pork easily in the oven. Season a pork roast (about 2-3 lbs) with any rub you like. Rap it tightly twice with plastic wrap and twice with foil so there are no seams. Don’t worry the plastic won’t melt. Then roast it for at least 3 hours at 250° F. Shred it finely with a pair of forks.
Carolina BBQ Glaze
2 cups molasses
1 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon crushed chili
2 tablespoons dry mustard
1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic
1 teaspoon pepper
Mix the ingredients well in a large saucepan. Bring just to a boil and remove from the heat. Mix with the pulled pork and let sit for 15 minutes or so. Put some pork on a bun and top with coleslaw.
This sauce is the quintessential Carolina sauce. Brush it on your ribs while they’re on the grill, toss your chicken wings in it or dunk you fried chicken.
Carolina Moppin’ Sauce
1 C mustard
¼ C honey
½ C molasses
¼ C cider vinegar
¼ tsp each thyme, oregano and black pepper
Dash of Cayenne pepper
2 T Olive oil
All you need to do is whisk everything together in a bowl. You could even try using Dijon mustard.
So here’s hoping you have a great BBQ season! As for me…I’m going to see if I can decipher the Dr. Bubba code.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Is Comrade Beet Soup, da
Well, yesterday was Mother’s Day and what did I do? Nothing. It seems to be what my mother likes best these days- when my brother Ben and I leave her alone. When they said, “Let sleeping dogs lie,” they were referring to my mother on Mother’s Day. Since this is a food-blog, it should seem appropriate that I should talk about my mother on Mother’s Day. (Ok, so it’s the day after. But technically, isn’t everyday Mother’s Day? Yeah, you’re right. It is a stretch.)
My mother was the main influence in my life when it comes to food. When I announced that I was leaving Arizona State University and my aspirations of building rockets to Mars to become a chef, she was more than thrilled. I’d like to think it had something to do with our mutual love of food, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the fact that I was no longer going to be playing with things that could kill me ( i.e. rockets to Mars. Can I help it if I love the smell of jet fuel in the morning?), had a small, significant part in her jubilation.
I don’t think there was ever anything my mom cooked that I didn’t like. Not sure if I could say the same thing about my sisters. We always sat in the same seats around the dinner table. My sister Elizabeth would always sit next to me. I was her garbage disposal. If there was anything she didn’t like she would pick it out and put it on my plate because she knew I’d eat anything. (He likes it! Hey, Mikey!) I guess this would explain my fondness for mushrooms. I always got more than my fair share of mushrooms, thanks to Elizabeth.
We had two rules at the dinner table at our house. One was on a plaque made of driftwood that hung in the kitchen. It said, ”Kwitcherbellyachin’ “ If you can’t tell what it said, I’ll translate - QUIT YOUR BELLY ACHING! In other words, quit complaining and eat! This leads to the second rule: If you don’t like it, there’s the kitchen. Help yourself. I don’t know if it’s a testament to my mother’s cooking skills or perhaps we were all just too polite, but I don’t recall these rules ever being enforced.
There was one incident, however, that has lived in infamy in our family. It is referred to only as, “The Borscht Incident.” I was too young to remember (I was 5 at the time, or so I was told), and my mom and sisters tell me I should be glad I didn’t remember. We’re talking full scale rebellion from the top down. It was the only time my dad ever objected to anything my mom made. That was in 1974. It wasn’t until the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City when my mom and I decided to celebrate by making a different ethnic cuisine everyday that I was able to talk her into making it again.
Borscht, like every other ethnic cuisine varies depending on the region. Think of the great American BBQ. There’s Texas, Memphis, St. Louis, Carolinas, Gulf Coast. There’s even a type of BBQ known as Santa Maria style from the central California Coast that uses only Tri-tip.
Borscht is more commonly known here in the U.S. as a cold red beet soup, but it is actually primarily served hot in Russia. Sometimes it has meat - ham, pork, a sausage of some type, or a combination of all of them - but it can also be vegetarian. I have here recipes for both kinds :
This one isn’t actually Borscht. It’s a Polish dish called Chlodnik (pronounced hu-WOHD-neek). I like it better than regular Borscht.
3 C buttermilk
½ C sour cream
½ tsp salt
1 15 oz can diced red beets plus juice (or 15 oz can whole or sliced beets, diced)
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, diced
1 bunch red radishes, washed, diced
2 T fresh chopped dill
Dash of fine ground black pepper
Whisk the buttermilk, sour cream and salt together in a large bowl. Mix in the remaining ingredients. Chill in the refrigerator for about 15-30 minutes. Stir well before serving. Makes enough for about four people.
I have several recipes of Borscht that are really good, but some are very labor-intensive. Here is the one my mom had stashed away in a Russian cookbook. It’s actually a Ukrainian version. I think, but I’m not sure, that this is the one that caused the “Great Borscht Rebellion” :
Olive Oil
2 lbs beef or pork (or one lb each), cubed
3 cloves of garlic, minced (1 - 1 ½ tsp)
1 stalk celery, sliced
4 oz sliced mushrooms
10 C water
1 bay leaf
1 T Worcestershire Sauce
2 tsp salt
2 tsp dried dill weed
½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
2 large potatoes, washed, diced small
2 carrots, diced
½ small head green cabbage, shredded
1 16 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 16 oz can white beans drained and rinsed
1 16 oz can shoestring beets, drained
1 T dried parsley
3 slices of bacon, diced and cooked crisp
Heat a large, heavy pot and slowly brown the meat. Add the onions, garlic and celery and sauté until the onions and celery are soft. Add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are cooked. Add the water, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, bay leaf and dill. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for one hour.
Add the potatoes and carrots and cook for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and tomatoes and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and cook for a final 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if you think it needs more dill, salt or pepper. You can serve it hot or cold. Don’t forget to garnish with sour cream!
You can see the difference between the two. They both make great soups for a hot summer day. Enjoy and Happy Mothers Day!
My mother was the main influence in my life when it comes to food. When I announced that I was leaving Arizona State University and my aspirations of building rockets to Mars to become a chef, she was more than thrilled. I’d like to think it had something to do with our mutual love of food, but I wouldn’t be surprised if the fact that I was no longer going to be playing with things that could kill me ( i.e. rockets to Mars. Can I help it if I love the smell of jet fuel in the morning?), had a small, significant part in her jubilation.
I don’t think there was ever anything my mom cooked that I didn’t like. Not sure if I could say the same thing about my sisters. We always sat in the same seats around the dinner table. My sister Elizabeth would always sit next to me. I was her garbage disposal. If there was anything she didn’t like she would pick it out and put it on my plate because she knew I’d eat anything. (He likes it! Hey, Mikey!) I guess this would explain my fondness for mushrooms. I always got more than my fair share of mushrooms, thanks to Elizabeth.
We had two rules at the dinner table at our house. One was on a plaque made of driftwood that hung in the kitchen. It said, ”Kwitcherbellyachin’ “ If you can’t tell what it said, I’ll translate - QUIT YOUR BELLY ACHING! In other words, quit complaining and eat! This leads to the second rule: If you don’t like it, there’s the kitchen. Help yourself. I don’t know if it’s a testament to my mother’s cooking skills or perhaps we were all just too polite, but I don’t recall these rules ever being enforced.
There was one incident, however, that has lived in infamy in our family. It is referred to only as, “The Borscht Incident.” I was too young to remember (I was 5 at the time, or so I was told), and my mom and sisters tell me I should be glad I didn’t remember. We’re talking full scale rebellion from the top down. It was the only time my dad ever objected to anything my mom made. That was in 1974. It wasn’t until the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City when my mom and I decided to celebrate by making a different ethnic cuisine everyday that I was able to talk her into making it again.
Borscht, like every other ethnic cuisine varies depending on the region. Think of the great American BBQ. There’s Texas, Memphis, St. Louis, Carolinas, Gulf Coast. There’s even a type of BBQ known as Santa Maria style from the central California Coast that uses only Tri-tip.
Borscht is more commonly known here in the U.S. as a cold red beet soup, but it is actually primarily served hot in Russia. Sometimes it has meat - ham, pork, a sausage of some type, or a combination of all of them - but it can also be vegetarian. I have here recipes for both kinds :
This one isn’t actually Borscht. It’s a Polish dish called Chlodnik (pronounced hu-WOHD-neek). I like it better than regular Borscht.
3 C buttermilk
½ C sour cream
½ tsp salt
1 15 oz can diced red beets plus juice (or 15 oz can whole or sliced beets, diced)
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, diced
1 bunch red radishes, washed, diced
2 T fresh chopped dill
Dash of fine ground black pepper
Whisk the buttermilk, sour cream and salt together in a large bowl. Mix in the remaining ingredients. Chill in the refrigerator for about 15-30 minutes. Stir well before serving. Makes enough for about four people.
I have several recipes of Borscht that are really good, but some are very labor-intensive. Here is the one my mom had stashed away in a Russian cookbook. It’s actually a Ukrainian version. I think, but I’m not sure, that this is the one that caused the “Great Borscht Rebellion” :
Olive Oil
2 lbs beef or pork (or one lb each), cubed
3 cloves of garlic, minced (1 - 1 ½ tsp)
1 stalk celery, sliced
4 oz sliced mushrooms
10 C water
1 bay leaf
1 T Worcestershire Sauce
2 tsp salt
2 tsp dried dill weed
½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
2 large potatoes, washed, diced small
2 carrots, diced
½ small head green cabbage, shredded
1 16 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 16 oz can white beans drained and rinsed
1 16 oz can shoestring beets, drained
1 T dried parsley
3 slices of bacon, diced and cooked crisp
Heat a large, heavy pot and slowly brown the meat. Add the onions, garlic and celery and sauté until the onions and celery are soft. Add the mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are cooked. Add the water, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, bay leaf and dill. Bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for one hour.
Add the potatoes and carrots and cook for 10 minutes. Add the cabbage and tomatoes and cook for another 10 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and cook for a final 10 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning if you think it needs more dill, salt or pepper. You can serve it hot or cold. Don’t forget to garnish with sour cream!
You can see the difference between the two. They both make great soups for a hot summer day. Enjoy and Happy Mothers Day!
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Been a Pho Month
Wow...what a month. Been awhile since I posted but I've been busy. Very busy. Too busy if you ask me. But that's OK. I'm not here to vent (believe me, I would if I could but it would just give me a larger headache than I already have). I'm here to talk about food, and do I have a doozy!
My friend Lexy called me earlier in the month with a dilemma. Her husband, Trevor, served an LDS mission in Texas, Vietnamese speaking. When some of his mission companions complained that they had trouble finding good Pho. Which isn't surprising. It can be hard to find good just about anything sometimes....if that makes sense. Anyway, like the good husband he is, Trevor just had to brag about his wife's cooking skills. Granted he was justified in doing so, but Lexy had never made, much less heard of Pho until she met Trevor. And honestly, neither had I. To the Google-mobile! (I'm sorry. I'm really, really sorry)
After exhaustive research (a whole five minutes I'll never get back), I learned quite a bit. First, it's pronounced "Fuh" and it's the national dish of Vietnam. It's basically beef noodle soup and it takes a long time to make. Took me three days. Here's the recipe:
2 lbs beef shank bones or oxtails
cold water
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon cloves
1 teaspoon whole coriander
1 2 oz bag of star anise
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 cup fish sauce
one onion, diced
one large package Pad Thai noodles
Bean Sprouts
Mint leaves
1 lb beef (I used a nice London Broil), sliced paper thin
Heat a large pot with a little olive oil. Brown the bones or oxtail on all sides. Add enough cold water to cover the bones. Add the spices and fish sauce and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat and let it simmer. Skim off any scum. Cover. I started this about 3 Pm and let it simmer until I went to bed around 11. I put the whole pot in the fridge when I went to bed and pulled it out when I came home from work the next day. I added a little more water and started the whole thing over again. I did it again the next day, scraping off any solid fat before reheating it. The stock will be a nice thick jelly by this time. I gave it a little heat until it liquified and then I strained it, and instead of water I added about 2 quarts of beef broth (which I haven't listed because it's my own trick). At this point I added the onions and let it come to a rolling boil. This is important as I'll explain later. Cook the noodles in boiling water. Be careful not to over cook them. They cook fast and will still be very firm when done (al dente to the max!).
Now, in some large soup bowls (about 4-6), place the cooked noodles, sprouts, a couple of mint leaves and the meat (raw). You could even add chopped green onions and shredded cabbabe if you want. Pour the boiling broth on top. This is why the broth must be boiling hot and why the meat is sliced paper thin. The boiling broth will cook the thin beef instantly. If you cut the meat against the grain ( if you look closely you can see lines of fiber in the meat - like the grain in lumber), the meat is absolutely so tender! This kind of reminds me of Japanese ShabuShabu. I think Udon noodles would have been better, though but that's just me. Oh well. It was still delicious!
My friend Lexy called me earlier in the month with a dilemma. Her husband, Trevor, served an LDS mission in Texas, Vietnamese speaking. When some of his mission companions complained that they had trouble finding good Pho. Which isn't surprising. It can be hard to find good just about anything sometimes....if that makes sense. Anyway, like the good husband he is, Trevor just had to brag about his wife's cooking skills. Granted he was justified in doing so, but Lexy had never made, much less heard of Pho until she met Trevor. And honestly, neither had I. To the Google-mobile! (I'm sorry. I'm really, really sorry)
After exhaustive research (a whole five minutes I'll never get back), I learned quite a bit. First, it's pronounced "Fuh" and it's the national dish of Vietnam. It's basically beef noodle soup and it takes a long time to make. Took me three days. Here's the recipe:
2 lbs beef shank bones or oxtails
cold water
2 cinnamon sticks
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
1 tablespoon cloves
1 teaspoon whole coriander
1 2 oz bag of star anise
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 cup fish sauce
one onion, diced
one large package Pad Thai noodles
Bean Sprouts
Mint leaves
1 lb beef (I used a nice London Broil), sliced paper thin
Heat a large pot with a little olive oil. Brown the bones or oxtail on all sides. Add enough cold water to cover the bones. Add the spices and fish sauce and bring it to a boil. Reduce the heat and let it simmer. Skim off any scum. Cover. I started this about 3 Pm and let it simmer until I went to bed around 11. I put the whole pot in the fridge when I went to bed and pulled it out when I came home from work the next day. I added a little more water and started the whole thing over again. I did it again the next day, scraping off any solid fat before reheating it. The stock will be a nice thick jelly by this time. I gave it a little heat until it liquified and then I strained it, and instead of water I added about 2 quarts of beef broth (which I haven't listed because it's my own trick). At this point I added the onions and let it come to a rolling boil. This is important as I'll explain later. Cook the noodles in boiling water. Be careful not to over cook them. They cook fast and will still be very firm when done (al dente to the max!).
Now, in some large soup bowls (about 4-6), place the cooked noodles, sprouts, a couple of mint leaves and the meat (raw). You could even add chopped green onions and shredded cabbabe if you want. Pour the boiling broth on top. This is why the broth must be boiling hot and why the meat is sliced paper thin. The boiling broth will cook the thin beef instantly. If you cut the meat against the grain ( if you look closely you can see lines of fiber in the meat - like the grain in lumber), the meat is absolutely so tender! This kind of reminds me of Japanese ShabuShabu. I think Udon noodles would have been better, though but that's just me. Oh well. It was still delicious!
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
It's Still March Isn't It?
I was going to write about St. Patrick's Day but it got away from me. And no, green beer was not involved, but I did have a hankering for some green eggs and ham. But that's another story. But hey, it's still March isn't it? Every day is St. Patrick's Day. It gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "living green." One thing I wonder though, why St. Patrick and not St. David? (Can you see where I'm going with this?) For those of non-Welsh heritage, St. David is the patron saint of Wales (what gave it away?) and his day is in Feburary and while Patrick's symbol is the clover, David's is (are you ready for this?) the leek. Yup, food is in my blood.
Anyway. So what do the Irish eat? They have to get something in their stomachs to soak up all that Guinness. I have images of potatoes, cabbage, lots of lamb and Finnan Haddie, which I'm sure you can guess is haddock. Two of the best Irish contributions to the culinary world (and again, no, it's not beer) are corned beef and lamb stew.
Ron Weasley bemoaned his mother's lovingly made, if not hastily made, corned beef sandwiches when he first met Harry Potter. Not like corned beef? With all that red hair you'd have thought the Weasley's had a little bit o' the Emerald in them. Me, I love corned beef. I do love a good pickle, aye. Whoever came up with the idea of pickling beef was a genius. Of course it was just a means of preserving beef in the medival days. But still.
So how's it done? Simple. If you've ever canned pickles then you can do the same to beef. Corned beef is usually a brisket but you can use a smaller roast or maybe even a tri-tip. Make enough pickling brine to cover the beef. You can keep it simple and buy a package of pickling spice. I'm not the canner in our family so I'm not sure of the porportions, but I do know water, brown sugar and salt are involved. No vinegar. A couple hundred years or so ago, they'd use saltpeter and baking soda as well. Now we know saltpeter can be toxic to some people but you could still use the baking soda. They'd then soak the meat for at least a week and then boil it in the brine, skimming off the coagulation that rises to the top. When the meat is cooked through, leave the meat in the brine and let it cool. The meat would last in the brine for about three months, but that's if you're doing 100 lbs of cow. You can slice it hot straight from the brine, or let the brine cool, remove the roast, pat it dry and have a nice Rueben.
Now lamb stew. I once had a friend who was the youngest of 13 children. She was living on her own but had a problem cooking. She didn't know how to cook for one. Every Sunday she'd make a big pot of whatever and about seven or eight of us would have a nice big "family" Sunday dinner. After awhile a couple of us started to feel a little guilty, so we conspired to rotate the responsibility. When my turn to cook dinner came around, wouldn't you know - it was March. So, I found a nice small leg of lamb, boned it, cubed the meat, browned the meat and the bone, added some chopped carrots, potatoes, onions, a bay leaf and some fresh thyme, covered it with water and let it stew on low for a couple hours. When it was done I just removed the bone, seasoned it with salt and pepper and added some chopped cabbage in the end. I mean, after all, it is an Irish stew. I served it with some cheese and farmers bread.
Everyone loved it except one. To her, eating out was usually Denny's and dinner was mac and cheese or something out of a box. She had never had lamb before and commented that this "beef" stew tasted weird. When I told her it was lamb, she freaked and couldn't finish it. >sigh< My work is never done, is it?
Anyway. So what do the Irish eat? They have to get something in their stomachs to soak up all that Guinness. I have images of potatoes, cabbage, lots of lamb and Finnan Haddie, which I'm sure you can guess is haddock. Two of the best Irish contributions to the culinary world (and again, no, it's not beer) are corned beef and lamb stew.
Ron Weasley bemoaned his mother's lovingly made, if not hastily made, corned beef sandwiches when he first met Harry Potter. Not like corned beef? With all that red hair you'd have thought the Weasley's had a little bit o' the Emerald in them. Me, I love corned beef. I do love a good pickle, aye. Whoever came up with the idea of pickling beef was a genius. Of course it was just a means of preserving beef in the medival days. But still.
So how's it done? Simple. If you've ever canned pickles then you can do the same to beef. Corned beef is usually a brisket but you can use a smaller roast or maybe even a tri-tip. Make enough pickling brine to cover the beef. You can keep it simple and buy a package of pickling spice. I'm not the canner in our family so I'm not sure of the porportions, but I do know water, brown sugar and salt are involved. No vinegar. A couple hundred years or so ago, they'd use saltpeter and baking soda as well. Now we know saltpeter can be toxic to some people but you could still use the baking soda. They'd then soak the meat for at least a week and then boil it in the brine, skimming off the coagulation that rises to the top. When the meat is cooked through, leave the meat in the brine and let it cool. The meat would last in the brine for about three months, but that's if you're doing 100 lbs of cow. You can slice it hot straight from the brine, or let the brine cool, remove the roast, pat it dry and have a nice Rueben.
Now lamb stew. I once had a friend who was the youngest of 13 children. She was living on her own but had a problem cooking. She didn't know how to cook for one. Every Sunday she'd make a big pot of whatever and about seven or eight of us would have a nice big "family" Sunday dinner. After awhile a couple of us started to feel a little guilty, so we conspired to rotate the responsibility. When my turn to cook dinner came around, wouldn't you know - it was March. So, I found a nice small leg of lamb, boned it, cubed the meat, browned the meat and the bone, added some chopped carrots, potatoes, onions, a bay leaf and some fresh thyme, covered it with water and let it stew on low for a couple hours. When it was done I just removed the bone, seasoned it with salt and pepper and added some chopped cabbage in the end. I mean, after all, it is an Irish stew. I served it with some cheese and farmers bread.
Everyone loved it except one. To her, eating out was usually Denny's and dinner was mac and cheese or something out of a box. She had never had lamb before and commented that this "beef" stew tasted weird. When I told her it was lamb, she freaked and couldn't finish it. >sigh< My work is never done, is it?
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Don't Forget the Burros, Grandma
I'll be going down to Phoenix in June. Call me crazy but I love summer in the Valley of the Sun. August is actually the best time to go, especially if you love a good thunderstorm. The monsoons in the Valley are unparalleled. All the thunder and lightening without all the rain.
Anyway, in my family, it is totally unacceptable to be in Phoenix without making at least one stop to a restaurant that is iconic in family fokelore. Jordan's. My dad, grandfather Kent and uncle Steve had a father/son CPA firm going on and they did the books for Jordan's. That and the fact that it was about three blocks from our house on W. Virgina Ave, we went there quite often.
There's one favorite story my mother tells that may shed quite a bit of light into why I love Mexican food. It's in my genes. When I was born in New York, my grandmother Laverne flew out to see little newborn me. On the way to the airport, she stopped at Jordan's and filled her carry-on bag with green chile burros (no, not burritos!). I'm told the smell permeated the entire cabin on the long flight east. To our family, Jordan's is a place that proves that what we consider "Mexican" food is as gringo as it gets. We try to imitate Jordan's at home as much as we can whenever we get the cravings for good Mexican food.
Sadly, the original Jordan's on Central and Virginia has closed because of construction of the light rail line going down Central Ave. But there's still the one on Bethany Home Rd and 7th St.
So, here I am in Utah. Lovely people, but like I've said before, sometimes a little deprived. Luckily, being in the restaurant business, I have access to people who know first hand what Mexican food should be like.
The other day, one of my cooks brought in some stuff to make himself some lunch. He took threemedium sized tomatoes, half a white onion, and a couple cloves of garlic. He boiled all of this in about a pint of water. He then took about a dozen dried red japones chilies (about the size of serranos but milder) and sauteed them in a little olive oil until they started to sweat and get darker. He then toasted some pine nuts and almonds, about 1/4 cup each and a couple tablespoons of sesame seeds. He then drained the tomatoes, onion and garlic and pureed everything together, using a little of the boiling liquid to thin it out a little.
All I could say was,"wow". It was incredible! It was great as a dip or as a mole-type sauce. It would probably be great with huevos ranchero.
I'm going to make it again and try and take pictures so you can see. Also, I'm working on getting videos as well. Next time - St. Patty's Day!
Anyway, in my family, it is totally unacceptable to be in Phoenix without making at least one stop to a restaurant that is iconic in family fokelore. Jordan's. My dad, grandfather Kent and uncle Steve had a father/son CPA firm going on and they did the books for Jordan's. That and the fact that it was about three blocks from our house on W. Virgina Ave, we went there quite often.
There's one favorite story my mother tells that may shed quite a bit of light into why I love Mexican food. It's in my genes. When I was born in New York, my grandmother Laverne flew out to see little newborn me. On the way to the airport, she stopped at Jordan's and filled her carry-on bag with green chile burros (no, not burritos!). I'm told the smell permeated the entire cabin on the long flight east. To our family, Jordan's is a place that proves that what we consider "Mexican" food is as gringo as it gets. We try to imitate Jordan's at home as much as we can whenever we get the cravings for good Mexican food.
Sadly, the original Jordan's on Central and Virginia has closed because of construction of the light rail line going down Central Ave. But there's still the one on Bethany Home Rd and 7th St.
So, here I am in Utah. Lovely people, but like I've said before, sometimes a little deprived. Luckily, being in the restaurant business, I have access to people who know first hand what Mexican food should be like.
The other day, one of my cooks brought in some stuff to make himself some lunch. He took threemedium sized tomatoes, half a white onion, and a couple cloves of garlic. He boiled all of this in about a pint of water. He then took about a dozen dried red japones chilies (about the size of serranos but milder) and sauteed them in a little olive oil until they started to sweat and get darker. He then toasted some pine nuts and almonds, about 1/4 cup each and a couple tablespoons of sesame seeds. He then drained the tomatoes, onion and garlic and pureed everything together, using a little of the boiling liquid to thin it out a little.
All I could say was,"wow". It was incredible! It was great as a dip or as a mole-type sauce. It would probably be great with huevos ranchero.
I'm going to make it again and try and take pictures so you can see. Also, I'm working on getting videos as well. Next time - St. Patty's Day!
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