Monday, November 30, 2009

Fusion Confusion

I hope you all had a delicious Thanksgiving. Mine was good except for one thing: left-over turkey. I can handle a couple days of left over turkey, but anything after that is overkill! Every year I tell my mother that we only need a breast and a couple legs which you can now buy separately, (Can you imagine if Mattel sold Barbie that way? “When I get my allowance next week, I’ll have enough saved up to buy Barbie another leg! And then next month, I’ll buy her some hair!” Retail price $19.95. Arms and legs sold separately.) but she doesn’t listen. She want’s the bones and giblets and all that. Can’t say I blame her, but still, I’m thankful that we’ll be having a ham for Christmas. Or a roast. I haven’t decided yet.

There are infinite things to do with left-over turkeys. Pretty much anything goes. Any recipe you have for chicken can easily be used to ‘make room in the fridge’, which is, as Lemony Snicket would say, “a phrase here that means, ‘making the turkey disappear.’ “ So you want recipes to help make your turkey left-overs disappear? Nuh-uh. Not gonna do it. Wouldn’t be prudent at this juncture. Whatever that means. All I know is I have my own 24 pound tom to digest.

So what about this “fusion” cooking I’ve been mentioning? We are a global community. It’s becoming more and more difficult to determine what is ethnic and what is the brainchild of some overzealous chef (Insert Avant Garde joke here…if you have one). Fusion is basically the combination of two cuisines. For example, when I was in Japan, in the city of Sendai, there was a Shakey’s Pizza. They had a pizza with usual Italian flare, but instead of anchovies there was ika. Or what the Italians call calamari. Yup. Squid Pizza. Another one had tuna. Cooked of course. Let’s not get carried away here.

You get the idea. Of course, fusion doesn’t have to be exotic or strange. One of my favorite cuisines is actually an unknown fusion of sorts - Southwestern. There are only two types of Southwestern cuisine: Sonoran and Santa Fe. Sorry Texas. No TexMex here. While it is fusion, I don’t consider it Southwestern. Or palatable for that matter. True Southwestern is Mexican with a Native American influence. In Santa Fe, the influence is on the Navajo, Apache and Pueblo style while with Sonoran, prominent in Arizona, the influence is more on the Mexican side. Both are heaven to me!

Ok so I have been thinking about fusion lately because I’ve had an idea. I know that some chefs like to use wanton wrappers for large tortellini or agnolotti (aka priest caps). So I’m thinking, what if I stuff my wantons with Christmas goodies like pumpkin pie filling, apple pie filling or how about a Crème Brule ? Or…or…or…Camembert with raspberry compote filling! Mmm! They’d work for postickers or shumai to! There’s Chinese bao buns stuffed with your favorite fruit instead of char su pork.

I once did a ravioli with a southwestern style. Instead of semolina, I used blue corn meal. I used chorizo instead of Italian sausage and I spiced up the marinara sauce with Mexican spices like cilantro, cumin, red chilies and lime and I garnished it with fresh diced avocado. Italian is actually one of the easiest foods to infuse! Everything goes with Italian!

Monday, November 23, 2009

A turkey is a funny bird!

It’s that time, folks! One of my favorite times of the year! There are many, my birthday for example (duh!) but none deal with food like Thanksgiving (although it is tied with Christmas and Easter is a close 2nd). I have many things to be thankful for - friends, family, employment - but mostly I’m thankful that I’m blessed with the opportunity and the ability to enjoy good food!

So, here are some things to help you with your Thanksgiving day feast. Any questions or if you’d like other recipes (I have tons!), don’t hesitate to ask! (Just don’t call me at 1 AM Wednesday night as I’ll be asleep starting on my month long vision of dancing sugar plums!)

Turkeys:

According to Benjamin Franklin, turkeys are the perfect American symbol. His argument was the fact that the eagle is a sinister and voracious predator while the turkey is a reserved and simple forager as well as one of a few culinary saviors to the pilgrims who struggled to colonize the new world. While Dr. Franklin may have lost that vote, and I for one have to admit I'm glad he did, the turkey has still, nonetheless, become an American icon. America may lag behind such countries like Israel as far as turkey consumption per capita goes, but around the world, the turkey has become synonymous with America like the Roast Who-beast with Seuss’ Grinch.

So how does one go about choosing the perfect bird for Thanksgiving? There are a few simple tips to follow. For starters, bigger is better. According to Epicurious.com, figure about one pound per person, or more if you love having turkey sandwiches everyday for the month between then and your next turkey at Christmas (Why do we do that to ourselves?!). Hens are usually about 15 pounds or less. The big ones are the toms and they can be up to 25 pounds.

So, what exactly are you getting when buying a turkey? It's always a good idea to read the label. It's an even better idea to know what the label is telling you. Be sure to read the label carefully. If the label says “Fresh”, it doesn’t necessarily mean “fresh”. It just means that the turkey has been held at no less than 26° F. Frozen, of course, means 0° F and below and are favorites for graveyard stock boys on the PTBA - Pro Turkey-Bowlers Association. A turkey labeled “natural” means just that - no artificial anything; flavorings, colorings, moisturizing agents or otherwise. Be careful with turkeys labeled “self-basting”. They may not be “natural”. Free-range means the turkey had full access to the farmer's front yard. Organic turkeys are the same as free-range turkeys only without the possibility of steroids, artificial growth hormones or antibiotics.

Fresh turkey is always best. If you do get a frozen turkey, get it far enough in advance for it to be able to thaw out in the refrigerator, preferably on the bottom shelf in the back. Give it about five days or so to thaw. If you don’t have the time, let the turkey sit, fully submerged under water in your sink or bucket, changing the water every so often to keep bacteria from festering. Figure about 10 minutes per pound to thaw.

Honey-brined Roasted Turkey

1 19-20 pound turnkey, cleaned
4 quarts water
4 quarts cider vinegar
2 cups kosher salt
4 cups honey
6 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly smashed
2 tablespoons whole black pepper
1 sprig fresh rosemary
olive oil

Place a large garbage bag (at least 10 gallons) in a large stock pot. Mix the liquids and spices, except the olive oil, together in the bag until salt and honey dissolve. Place the cleaned turkey, without the gizzards, in the bag, making sure the turkey is completely covered by the brine. Seal up the bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. 18-24 hours is preferred.

Remove the turkey and let drain on a rack. Discard the brine. Rub a little olive oil (about 1 tablespoon per each side) on the breasts under the skin. Truss the turkey (although you shouldn't have to worry about this as most turkeys come pre-trussed, meaning the legs are tied). Place the turkey, breast down (this allows the fat to seep through the breast keeping it moist), on a rack in a roasting pan and tent loosely with foil. Roast at 350°, basting every 30 minutes after the first hour, until the internal temperature in the thigh reaches about 175°-180°, about 5-6 hours. Remove the foil for the last half hour. Let rest, breast side up, loosely tented on a platter, for at least 10-15 minutes before carving

Mashed Potatoes with Pears

5 pounds potatoes
1 C + 2 T butter or margarine, room temperature
4 large Bartlett pears, peeled and diced medium
1 can pear nectar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
1 C milk


Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft and very tender. While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons butter in a sauté pan. Add the pears and sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the nectar and bring to a simmer, covered, reducing the heat to medium low and stirring occasionally, about 4-5 minutes. Let the pear mixture cool a little and then puree 3/4 the mixture.

Place the prepared sweet potatoes in a large mixing bowl. Add the pear mixture and remaining ingredients and beat on medium speed until creamy.

Sweet Potato Gratin

4 large sweet potatoes (4-4 1/2 pounds)
1 pound russet potatoes
3 tablespoon finely chopped onion
1 1/2 tablespoon minced ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter, melted
1 cup chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine

Preheat oven to 400° Peel and slice thinly all potatoes, keeping them in cold water until needed. Place one layer of sweet potatoes in the bottom of a well-greased casserole pan. Sprinkle with one tablespoon onion, 1/2 tablespoon ginger and one table spoon sugar. Repeat with the russets but without the sugar. Finish with the remaining sweet potatoes and top off with the remaining onion, ginger and sugar. Mix the cream, melted butter, broth and nutmeg. Pour evenly over the potatoes. Cover with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake for 15 minutes until potatoes are tender and sauce thickens. Top with thyme and let sit for 10 minutes before service.

Wild Rice Sausage Corn Dressing

2 cups wild rice
1/2 pound ground Italian sausage
3 medium leeks, sliced, white parts only
4 ears of corn, shucked and cut
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
1 12 ounce can chicken broth
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
6 cups bread, cubed and dried

Bring salted water to a boil. Cook the wild rice in the boiling water for 15 minutes on medium heat. Drain and set aside.
Cook the Italian sausage about halfway on medium heat. Add the leeks and saute until tender and sausage is done. Add the cut corn and thyme and saute for another two minutes or so. Add the chicken broth and bring just to a simmer. Add the parsley, bread cubes and cooked wild rice, mixing well. Simmer covered on medium low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Nantucket Cranberry Sauce

3-4 oranges, squeezed (about 1 cup)
1 cup apple cider
1 tablespoon orange zest
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup molasses
2 packets of Knox Gelatin
1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries

Bring the cider to a simmer and dissolve the gelatin in the cider. Remove from heat. Grind up the cranberries in the food processor with the orange juice. Combine everything in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into a glass or plastic container and chill.

Turkey Pan Gravy

While the turkey is resting, pour two cups of water into the bottom of the roasting pan and scrap any residue and drippings from the turkey. Pour it all into a saucepan. Add one quart water and one quart chicken broth, the turkey neck and gizzards, two garlic cloves, two large sprigs of fresh thyme and one teaspoon whole peppercorns. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat and let simmer for 15 minutes. While this is simmering, in a small sauté pan, melt ½ cup butter and whisk in a ½ cup flour until smooth. Simmer for about 2 minutes or so and remove from the heat. Strain the liquid, returning it to the pot and discarding the solids. Bring to a simmer and slowly whisk in the roux (the butter flour mixture) until thick and smooth. The longer the gravy simmers, the thicker it will get.

Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans

I mentioned this one a couple posts ago but it deserves another go.

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt one tablespoon of butter together with the olive oil. Sauté the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans, pecans and herbs. Sauté for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.

Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie

1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup apple butter
1/2 cup brown sugar. packed
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
1 9 inch unbaked pie crust

Preheat oven to 375°. Combine pumpkin, apple butter, brown sugar, and spices. Gently mix in eggs. Stir in the cream. Pour evenly into the unbaked pie crust. It would be a good idea to cover the edges of the crust with foil. Bake for 25 minutes and then remove the foil. Bake for an additional 20-25 minutes or until pie is set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cranberry Apple Pie

1 ready made pie crust
1 egg white
2 lbs medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3/4 cup frozen cranberries
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup gingersnap crumbs
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
4 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat oven to 375°. Brush the entire inside of the crust with the egg white. Toss the apples and cranberries with the sugar, flour, cornstarch, orange zest and nutmeg. Spread the mixture evenly in the crust, pressing down. Mix the remaining ingredients and spread evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake on the bottom rack for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 10-15 minutes.

New York Pumpkin Cheesecake

3 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 15 ounce can pumpkin
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
7 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons rum
2 teaspoons nutmeg

Preheat oven to 375°. Place a large casserole dish, large enough for a 9 inch spring-form pan, with about a inch of water, into the oven.
Combine the crumbs, butter and pumpkin pie spice. Press evenly into spring-form pan. Bake for 5 minutes.
Combine the rest of the ingredients in a mixer and beat well. Pour evenly into the pan. Gently tap the pan on the counter so the filling settles. Wrap the outside with foil so it’s higher than the edge of the spring-form pan. Place it in the casserole pan of water in the oven. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300° and bake for an additional 45-50 minutes or until the center is set. Use the toothpick test. Turn off the oven but let the cake remain in the oven for about 30 minutes or so.

Happy Thanksgiving! … and I haven’t forgotten about the pumpkin fusion!

Friday, November 20, 2009

The Great Pumpkin is AWOL

So I went to the store the other day to buy some pumpkins. It was just a few days after Halloween so I thought there’d still be some left, even if all that was left were the misshapen, blemished ones destined for the Island of Misfit Gourds. Think Charlie Brown and that tiny bare tree he rescued from the tree lot. Only this time, there was no Snoopy to save the day. Like Linus, I spent too much time in anticipation and not enough time in preparation. He sat and waited for the Great Pumpkin to arrive but forgot to prepare himself for the fact that the magical gourd might not come. I never took into account that there would be no pumpkins for sale after Halloween.

Why is it stores only sell pumpkins until Halloween? I understand the pre-occupation with Jack-o-lanterns. I was once a kid myself. But honestly, has our society devolved to the point where no one uses fresh pumpkin squash for anything? It’s Soyent Green all over again (if you ever see that movie, you may never eat again, ever!). I mean, canned pumpkin is ok, (store bought ready-made pie, not so much) but once you try using fresh pumpkin, you‘ll never see pumpkin pie in the same light again.

Maybe it‘s the daunting task of working with such a large vegetable. Maybe it’s the stringy slimy goop inside. Whatever the case may be, whatever your fears or trepidations, it’s a small price to pay for fresh pumpkin. Hopefully, these two methods that I use can make cooking with fresh pumpkin a little less arduous.

Method One: After discarding the seeds cut the pumpkin in half or quarters depending on how large the pumpkin is. Rub a little olive oil on the inside of each piece and place them skin down on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast for 30 minutes at 350° or until the pumpkin is soft and starting to brown. Cool completely. You should be able to peel the skin off easily. This method is best used for pumpkin pies, pureed soups and the such.

Method Two: I like this method best because it allows me to use pumpkin in more than one way, such as in savory dishes where I want the pumpkin squash to be soft, yet firm. It also allows me to prepare several pumpkins at a time and freeze them so I can have fresh pumpkin squash year round. After cleaning the pumpkin, cut it into thin wedges as you would a cantaloupe for your breakfast. Using either a steamer in the bottom of a large pot or a double broiler with a steamer, bring some water to a boil. Steam enough pumpkin for one container or plastic freezer bag at a time for 10 minutes. Cool the pumpkin in an ice water bath (called shocking) for at least 2 minutes or until completely cooled before placing the pumpkin in any freezer-safe container. Carefully cut the skin off each wedge like you would take the rind off a cantaloupe. They should last a couple months in the freezer if properly protected. There are unlimited possibilities with this one!

Well, I guess I’ll have to keep looking, or hope that pumpkins will be on sale again next week. There’s always butternut of course.