Thursday, July 14, 2011

How To Get Your Kids To Eat

Hanging from above the refrigerator when I was a child was a piece of what looked like drift wood, all shiny and lacquered. On it was one big word that we in the family all knew but would cause someone unfamiliar with the word to pause and think. That word was "Kwitcherbellyachin". For those optically challenged, I shall translate - "Quit-Your-Bellyaching". In other words, stop whining already and deal with it.

Naturally, this could be applied to any aspect of life, but the fact that this word hung in our family kitchen could mean only one thing. My mother's motto in the kitchen was, rather bluntly, "If you don't like dinner, there's the kitchen." She has remarked on several occasions that, amazingly, none of us ever took her up on the offer. To this day, she claims, she has no idea how she did it. We either had "very distinguished palates, or were just too polite to complain," as she once put it. I think it was a little of both.

Every night at diner we would manage to plant ourselves in the same place at the table as if our names were etched in the chairs, drawing our bums to the correct seat like psychological magnets. Perhaps it was a fear that if we sat at the wrong place, we would be electrocuted and fried from the inside out, or a trap door would open up to a chasm of alligators, or worse, roaches. Perhaps we didn't care. Whatever the reason, we all wound up at the same place every night and it all worked out to everyone's advantage.

Elizabeth would always sit next to me and I knew it wasn't her way of playing favorites. She did it because she knew if Mom cooked something she didn't like she could pawn it off on me, usually without even asking me. I would watch happily as she would meticulously pick all the mushrooms off her plate and dump them onto mine. It was like watching some kind of innate symbiotic relationship, the human version, played out on Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom - from the asphalt Serengeti of West Virginia Avenue. I don't think she ever developed a taste for mushrooms.

Having worked in the food industry for twenty years now, I am constantly reminded of the different, and many times eclectic, tastes. I can't tell you how many times a customer has asked if the salmon was Coho or Sockeye. I always reply that if they can tell the difference, I'll give them a job. One time, a particular restaurant I worked for served a Thai pasta bowl with a peanut sauce. A customer asked for a side of bleu cheese crumbles. I had to wonder, at what point in this person's life did they realize that Thai peanut sauce and bleu cheese were a good combination? Were they tortured mercilessly by their mother's bad cooking? Was it a childhood prank that backfired?

One thing's for sure, you have to start young. I can't remember where I read it (or I would post a link for you) but I had once read that babies are born without a fear factor. Any mother will tell you this. They explore everything. Sure some babies will like strained peas more than others, but still, put a blob on a spoon and point it at their mouth and there you go. Airplane in the hangar. When a child approaches somewhere around three, they will normally start to understand the world around them and will learn from their own experiences what they like or dislike. In other words, they develop that fear factor. If you really think about it, it's no different with other animals. See Mutual of Omaha, Human Version - Season Three. So it's safe to say that a mother or father that has a fear of certain foods, or doesn't teach their young as well, will have children with the same fears.

Take my Jacobson cousins. Every year, sometimes twice a year, we would venture down to Tatooine (Yuma,AZ for those non-Star Wars fans). My Uncle Bruce does not like onions, fresh, dried or powdered. Every time we visited, my cousins would ask, "Did Aunt Lella make it?" If the answer was yes, out came the milk and Cheerios. It was all because they had once looked in horror as she made spaghetti sauce with onions. Ever since, they just assumed there were onions somewhere to be found if my mom did the cooking, even if there weren't.

I have a friend who's mother was not that good of a cook; It was always boxed, frozen or processed. Dining out to them, she once told me, was a trip to Denny's. She was, in my own words, hardwired to believe that this was acceptable. I once made a nice Irish stew for my friends and she commented that the beef didn't seem 'fresh'. When I told her it was lamb, she was suddenly put off. She had grown up in an environment where exploring your taste buds and seeing how far you can push them just wasn't done. I told her that if she would be willing to try, I could get her to like things she had never had before. She wasn't up to it. She liked her comfort zone. Don't we all? Some people's comfort zones are just wider than others.

Once, I had promised to make a friend and her sister dinner, but failed to ask if there was anything they refused to eat. I made some Linguine Bolognese with some fresh Porcini mushroom. She never said a thing. She tucked in and finished the whole thing. Afterwards, she told me that she hated mushrooms but was too excited to have a real chef cook for her and was too polite to complain. She eats mushrooms now. Maybe her fear of hurting my feelings helped her overcome her fear of mushrooms. Personally, I think it has to do with the way they were cooked.

Whenever I hear of someone's dislike of something particular, my first thought is, "maybe it's because you've never had it made right." Usually they'll disagree, but I'm almost always right. Food ill prepared by an inexperienced, or just plain lousy, cook will always play on the fears of a child, especially if you tinker with something they're used to.

Sixty years ago, it was common to use canned tomato soup as a base for homemade spaghetti sauce. Once, when my mom was a teenager, she made a real Italian spaghetti sauce with stewed tomatoes. My Uncle Tom wouldn't touch it. He was so used to the smooth sauce made from tomato soup, the tomato chunks grossed him out.

Children, or in some cases grown men, that don't like vegetables, usually don't like the flavor or texture. Sometimes it's the principle. Even if they like vegetables, they won't eat them because they are...vegetables. You have to learn to manipulate the vegetables to soften up the texture and bring out their natural sweetness. My mom used to do something to carrots that is called "blanch and shock" otherwise known as parboiling. This is just a simple technique of partially cooking vegetables in boiling water for just a couple of minutes (about 4 – 5 for carrots) and then immediately cooling them in ice water. This stops the cooking process and leaves you with a carrot that is softer and sweeter than raw carrots but not mushy like canned or frozen. We use this technique in the professional kitchen when roasting carrots. They caramelize in the oven much better than raw carrots, are sweeter and softer. They are great cold, too, with some peanut butter.

One thing to remember is that kids don't like mushy, soggy vegetables. Come to think if it, neither do I. It's best to remember that vegetables have different cooking times. If you toss in some zucchini the same time as the carrots, the zucchini will be a mess before the carrots are done.

The fresher the vegetables the better. Frozen is ok when using some vegetables like broccoli, carrots or green beans. Things like spinach and zucchini should always be fresh. Never, ever, EVER use canned spinach! I don't care what Popeye says. Even if it's in a casserole or a nice baked Greek Spanikopita, canned spinach will ruin anything. It is a soggy, over-cooked, over-salted mess. Zucchini and yellow Summer squash tend to get bitter when overcooked. It might be a good idea to de-seed the squashes before cooking and leave them slightly firm and crisp. They're sweeter that way.

This is one reason I love Asian food - full of vegetables that are fresh and never overcooked. The great thing about a wok is that it's designed for high heat without burning. This sears the vegetables, softening them while leaving them crisp.

Of course there are other alternatives. Instead of zucchini, use butternut or banana squash. Young kids might eat banana squash simply because the name would amuse them.

Mushrooms are a different problem all together. Elizabeth would tell me that mushrooms taste like dirt. Well, of course. That's how they're grown. It would be like eating a potato straight out of the ground. Unfortunately you can't really wash mushrooms. They will start to deteriorate and turn mushy the second they hit the water. Luckily most mushrooms you buy at the store come relatively clean. If you have to wash mushrooms, don't do it unless you are cooking them immediately. Don't cook too many mushrooms at once. That will cool down your pan and steam the mushrooms, turning them mushy. Just like other vegetables, you want a nice high heat to sear the mushrooms, making them soft, yet crisp. Mushrooms are also like bananas. If you are going to put them in a salad (which I would not recommend for beginners) they should be nice and white and fresh. If you want to make banana bread, you save your bananas until they are brown and very ripe. Mushrooms that are turning darker have fuller flavor and are best for cooking.

Besides cooking foods right so kids don't get turned off by mushy, overcooked, over seasoned food, it helps to get them involved. This could actually be your best weapon against fussy eating. The final Harry Potter movie is coming out. Why not have a Harry Potter party? The books mention a lot of meats and sweets, but there are also quite a bit that can involve vegetables. I have the entire list of foods mentioned in all seven books. Just let me know if you want it and I will post it.

The City of Ember, while not the best movie adaptation, mentions a lot of food and all are vegetarian. There are some great soups, stews and such mentioned.

Artemis Fowl was known to eat well including a Spanish appetizer called tapas. Tapas can be anything, including vegetables.

What child is not a fan of movies? Remy, the Little Chef was a master of a famous French vegetarian stew called Ratatouille. Get your child involved in the cooking. They will be thrilled to be eating Remy's creation.

Is your child studying a foreign country in school? Use the opportunity to explore. It's just another way to get your child involved in the cooking process all the while helping your child with their 'homework'.

Another problem you might encounter is the stigma that comes with “eating healthy”. Sometimes It's impossible to get kids to eat whole grain breads. I have a recipe for an Oatmeal Molasses Bread that looks brown like whole wheat and will satisfy any child's sweet tooth. It makes a great PBJ! You could 'fib' a little and use whole wheat flour and the kids will not know the difference.

So, I will post some recipes soon, especially ratatouille, the oatmeal molasses bread and some from City of Ember, but to reiterate, don't overcook the food, allow the food's natural sweetness and flavors to come out, use the freshest of foods, start introducing new foods when your children are young and, most importantly, get your child involved. I can't promise guaranteed success (every child is different), but don't give up and don't get upset if it fails. You may lose the battle, but you should at least have fun trying.

Bon appetit!

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

The Crandall Legacy

It all started with a simple suggestion, yet no one could ever have imagined the impact on our family history. In 1961, when Lella, got married, Clarence suggested she and new husband Ben come over on Saturday evenings and he would throw some hamburgers on the grill. That tradition not only lasted nearly 23 years until Clarence and Jewel retired to Thatcher, but it has become a part of family lore.

The story really doesn’t start there. When Clarence was young, he, along with his brothers Earl, Lyle and Burdette, helped their father Stanley in "The Pharmacy" in Safford. They were known as “soda jerks” - a term that always made Jewel giggle. It referred to a person behind the counter who mixed soft drinks and scooped ice cream. Picture a young George Bailey in “It’s a Wonderful Life” pushing sundaes and sodas and there you have the Crandall boys.

Soda from a soda fountain, even today, comes as a syrup and is mixed with the soda water to order. Today it is done automatically (There is even a new machine invented and tested in Phoenix that mixes as much as 100 different flavor combinations. Just punch the right buttons and the computer mixes it for you!). Back then it was all done by hand. A couple tablespoons of Coca Cola syrup, a squirt of cherry syrup, a squirt of chocolate, add seltzer water, stir and there you have it - a cherry chocolate Coke. This is not only where Clarence gained his love of soda pop, but also where he learned to cook burgers.

One of the beautiful things about Clarence’s hamburgers was the simplicity. There was no Lipton Onion Soup mix, no secret herbs and spices, no fancy toppings. He seasoned it with just salt and pepper and he wouldn’t season them until they were on the grill. (This is important as salt will pull moisture out of the meat and dry it out.) He had a couple of classic Art Deco style tin salt and pepper shakers he would bring outside just for the occasion. It’s not known for sure, but it’s possible that’s how they cooked the burgers at the Pharmacy. He also never bought ready made-burger patties. In those days that really wasn’t an option. It was ground beef in bulk by the pound. Tupperware was a huge deal in the 50’s and 60’s and Clarence had a set of Tupperware hamburger molds. I always got a kick out of watching him press the patties.

He used only charcoal - no wood and never briquettes or gas. Later, once it became available on the market, he started using mesquite charcoal, and sometimes he would add mesquite chips soaked in water. Plenty of lighter fluid was an essential part of the equation as well.

The trimmings were simple too. There was Kraft American Singles, sliced white onion, dill pickle chips and tomatoes. Ketchup, yellow mustard, relish and mayo were all we needed. Nothing fancy. Just the classic All-American Burger for us.

He never bought anything for the evening’s get-together until that afternoon, with maybe the exception of J-ello, which he always had plenty on hand. I was once lucky enough to spend a whole Saturday with him and got to go to the grocery store - Bayless on 19th Avenue and (I think) Osborne.

We always had J-ello, always strawberry, filled with fruit cocktail. To entertain us grandkids, Clarence would have a can of Reddi-Whip whipped cream to squirt over the J-ello. It was always canned whipped cream, never from a tub. That wouldn't have been as fun. I wouldn't have been surprised if we went through more than one can, to say the least.

You may expect fries at Burger King (Clarence would empty out his change jar and give us little envelopes of coins he called PPSPBK money - Peanuts, Popcorn, Soda Pop and Burger King), but at the Crandall’s Saturday night gathering we had potato chips. We only had two kinds - plain and BBQ. Sometimes there were Ruffles, sometimes Lays, sometimes both. Again, nothing fancy. I do recall once in awhile there would be Sour Cream and Chives.

And then there was the soda. It seems to have become the family icon. Even up to his final days there were four things you could find in the Crandall kitchen in Thatcher - chips (both potato and tortilla), salsa, ice cream and soda. If the Crandall family crest were to be modernized, I'm sure it would have a picture of Dr. Pepper on it somewhere. I once declared, much to Jewel's dismay, that since I was a Crandall, my blood was carbonated.

On Saturday, Clarence would fill two large Coleman ice chests full of all kinds of sodas. He always called it "pop". There was something to satisfy everyone - Dr. Pepper (of course!), Pepsi, Coke, Root Beer (A&W, Hires, Mug, Dads, Shasta - you name it), 7UP, Sprite, Hawaiian Punch for the kids, Shastas of all flavors (lemon lime, ginger ale, grape, orange), Canada Dry (and sometimes a treat - Schwepps!), Mountain Dew and Fresca, which Granny (Clarence's mother Elizabeth) always called "Frisky". I also remember him stocking a little known soda that's no longer on the market called Rondo. It was a cross between Mountain Dew and Mellow Yellow. We always drank at least two cans or sometimes three (I did anyway - more if there was Scwepps!)

No Saturday night was complete without a bowl of ice cream. Clarence's favorite was Neopolitan. Of course, there was vanilla and chocolate. Once in awhile there would be chocolate chip, chocolate chip mint or Rocky Road. I don't remember if we added toppings like chocolate sauce, strawberry sauce or whipped cream, but it wouldn't have surprised me if we had. There was, of course, whipped cream!

It wasn't all fat and sugar. We did try to eat somewhat healthy. Clarence would always put out a salad. No Potato or Macaroni salad and no colesalw (unless there was a "Trip to the Colonel's" which I'll mention later). It was always a simple salad of torn Iceburg lettuce with shredded carrots, chopped celery and sliced radishes. Sometimes he'd throw some cherry tomatoes in there. He would put out three or four different kinds of dressings like Ranch, Thousand Island, Bleu and Italian. Sometimes there was a French, Catalina or Russian.

Once in a blue moon Clarence would be either too busy to cook or just not feeling up to it or sometimes the weather wouldn't be agreeable for firing up the grill, which didn't happen often. I don't ever remember not being able to play in the back yard. Whatever the case, it would never stop us.

Sometimes Clarence would make a "Trip to the Colonel's". Three or four buckets of fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, coleslaw and biscuits. Even then he'd still manage to stock up on the usual two ice chests of soda.

Sometimes we would have Taco Night. Jewel would put out a spread of taco seasoned ground beef, shredded cheese and lettuce, chopped onions and tomatoes and bottled salsa. Melody and Lella would bring enchiladas. Clarence would make "Pioneer Beans" which is just slow cooked pinto beans with bacon. Nothing fancy but great with a dash of Tobasco sauce!

Clarence was a well known quail hunter. He and his brothers would go every year. Sometimes they would bag quite a few. I vaguely recall on a couple of occasions having roast quail on Saturday evenings. Not sure if he had any particular method or recipe, but I would love to know. Maybe the quail should be on the family crest?

Speaking of mysteries, the biggest family culinary mystery actually concerned Granny. She was well known for her Christmas fruitcakes flavored with "homemade" peach brandy. She had several peach trees in her back yard on Main Street in Safford, so it's plausible. But it's not known if she shared her peach brandy recipe with anyone and any questioning of Clarence or his brothers and sisters would just result in answering the question without giving a definitive answer. They all either didn't know for sure, denied it was possible or they knew she used it but knew nothing else about it. My mother, Lella, told me that when asked about the fruitcake, Granny herself had said the secret was her homemade peach brandy, but nothing more came of it. Still no recipe.

Another family culinary legacy isn't as mysterious. The lunch counter at the Pharmacy was actually better known for it's chili than burgers. The original recipe is still in the family's possession according to Burdette's son Lincoln. It is nothing more than your run-of-the-mill chili with ground beef, beans, onions, chili powder, etc, but with a nice AZ/NM Sonoran touch - Hominy. I'll have to bug Linc about the exact recipe. Our distant Crandall cousins in Springville, UT are well known for their "Crandall Beef". This is a chili they could be proud of.

We Crandalls have a deep connection with the American Southwest both in Arizona and New Mexico. Because of that, Sonoran style Mexican food is considered throughout the family as the ultimate comfort food. Those two states have the best Mexican food in the U.S., bar none! In fact, it's been pointed out that if it's not Sonoran style, it's not right. One thing Clarence was known for was his Santa Fe Enchiladas. Sonoran/Santa Fe style enchiladas are a cross between an enchilada and tostada with a fried egg on top.

You soften your corn tortillas like you were making enchiladas but instead of stuffing them and rolling them, you stack them - first some refried beans (refried black beans, maybe?), hominy, ground taco seasoned beef, then shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes and onions, shredded cheese and topped with a fried egg (always over easy!), salsa and sour cream. I guess you could call it a kind of Huevos Ranchero without the chorizo.

Both Clarence and Jewel had their favorite dishes and not surprisingly, both are Germanic/Slavic/Scandinavian. Well, Eastern European. Clarence loved his “stinky cheese” which is what Jewel called it. She allowed it once a year as a Christmas treat. It's better known as Liptauer Cheese and it's great on rye with Braunschweiger (liverwurst) or with sardines (aka “stinky fish”) as Clarence preferred. Jewel's favorite dish was red cabbage which we have come to love in our family. Here are the recipes:


Spiced Red Cabbage

Serves 8


2 pounds red cabbage shredded

1 pound Granny Smith apples. chopped

1 onion diced

1 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped fine

dash nutmeg

dash cinnamon

dash cardamom


In a 4 qt. saucepan or Dutch oven saute the cabbage, apples and onions until the cabbage is wilted. Add the remaining ingredients, mix well and cover, simmering on medium for 10 minutes or until the juices are reduced. Stir occasionally. This is great with Kielbasa or Bratwursts.


Liptauer Cheese Pot


8 oz cream cheese, softened

½ medium green pepper, minced

1 small onion, minced

¾ oz can anchovies

1 large cove garlic, minced (or 1 tsp)

2 Tbsp caraway seed

2 Tbsp paprika

1 Tbsp olive oil

¼ tsp dry mustard


Let the cream cheese sit at room temperature until soft. In a food processor, mince the onions, pepper, anchovies and garlic. Add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Spoon into an earthenware dish, cover and chill.


Just for kicks, here is a favorite recipe of Clarence's that always gave him a laugh because it reminded him of his FBI days -


A Bureaucrat's Guide to Chocolate Chip Cookies

by Susan E. Russ (reprinted with permission of the Washington Post)


For those government employees and bureaucrats who have problems with standard recipes, here's one that should make the Grade-A classic version of the chocolate chip cookie translated for easy reading.


1 C packed brown sugar

½ C granulated sugar

½ C softened butter

½ C shortening

2 eggs

1 ½ tsp vanilla

2 ½ C all-purpose flour

1 tsp baking soda

½ tsp salt

12 oz package semi-sweet chocolate pieces

1 C chopped walnuts or pecans


Guidance:

After procurement actions, de-containerize inputs. Perform measurement tasks on a case-by-case basis. In a mixing type bowl, impact heavily on brown sugar, granulated sugar, softened butter and shortening. Coordinate the interface of eggs and vanilla, avoiding an overrun scenario to the best of your skills and abilities.

At this point in time, leverage flour, baking soda and salt into a bowl and aggregate. Equalize with prior mixture and develop intense and continuous liaison among inputs until well-coordinated. Associate key chocolate and nut subsystems and execute stirring operations.

Withing this time frame, take action to prepare the heating environment for throughput by manually setting the oven baking unit by hand to a temperature of 375 degrees Fahrenheit (190 degrees Celsius). Drop mixture in an ongoing fashion from a teaspoon implement onto an un-greased cookie sheet at intervals sufficient enough apart to permit total and permanent separation of throughputs to the maximum extent practable under operating conditions.

Position cookie sheet in bake situation and surveil for 8 to 10 minutes or until cooking action terminates. Initiate coordination of outputs within the cooling rack function. Containerize, wrap in red tape and disseminate to authorized staff personnel on a timely and expeditious basis.


Output:

Six dozen official government cookie units


So there you have it, the world of Crandall cuisine in a nutshell. If there is anything I might have forgotten or anyone wants to add, please let me know!




Thursday, November 18, 2010

It's a Turkey MIracle!

She could have strangled her husband right then and there. What was he thinking? It was going to be only their second Thanksgiving together and she was looking forward to another quiet holiday, just the two of them, like she wanted. One phone call from his mother and she could kiss that thought goodbye.

He just had to brag to his boss about her cooking. Just her luck her husband’s boss was married to the co-chair of the Daughters of Utah Pioneers and co-author of a localized pioneer cookbook, and lived next door to the sister of a lady whose daughter went to beauty school with the girl who did the hair of the lady whose niece-in-law’s kids went to school with kids of the lady who lived next door to her husband’s mother. Yeah, so word on the LDS network traveled faster than a viral Tweet and now she was going to have her husband’s entire family over for Thanksgiving dinner. All fifteen of them.

Granted her husband’s bragging was justified. Cooking was not the problem. Her own mother had done well in teaching her that food could be for more than just nourishment. She remembered vividly every meal she ate as a child and the anticipation and excitement of wondering what her mother was going to present on the dinner table that night. Every night was a culinary adventure. The anticipation of every holiday season was focused more on the food than the presents. When she married, her husband told her he wanted her to continue with her mother’s tradition.

The problem was she had never cooked for such a large group before. It had always been either just her, or her and her husband, and he was easy to please. After all, his mother wasn’t exactly Julia Child. She once watched in near vomit-inducing horror as her mother-in-law put ketchup on a well done-of-a-hockey puck steak. It was all she could do to break her husband of that habit and try to get him to experience something else, even if it was simply steak sauce. She was thinking she might have to lock all the ketchup in the house in a safe-box and bury it 10 feet under. Then she realized, with a sigh of relief, that she had been successful in completely eradicating the foul condiment from her kitchen. Besides, she didn’t have time for any digging.

So what to do? She had never done a whole turkey before and the idea began to overwhelm her. It had always been just a small turkey breast for her and her husband and now she was facing the daunting task of cooking a 25 pound turkey and a ten pound ham, which, she was told, her father-in-law would be bringing over the week before.

Deep down she wondered if she wasn’t more worried about ruining her brand new oven in their new house, which she hadn’t even had time to properly christen yet. They had only moved into the house in August, just two months after her husband had graduated from college and had started his new job as an Industrial Designer for Lockheed Martin.

Her husband reassured her that it was easier than she thought. She shot him a look that said, “Who’s cooking this stupid bird? Me or you?” But, with confidence in his wife’s cooking and his own ability to Google, he handed her some information he felt she could use.

With trepidation festering on the brink of pure loathing and the looming possibility of not speaking to her husband until maybe Christmas, if he was lucky, she looked over what he had printed out for her.

“So how does one go about choosing the perfect bird for Thanksgiving? There are a few simple tips to follow. For starters, bigger is better. According to Epicurious.com, figure about one pound per person, or more if you love having turkey sandwiches everyday for the month between then and your next turkey at Christmas (Why do we do that to ourselves?!). Hens are usually about 15 pounds or less. The big ones are the toms and they can be up to 25 pounds. Here is a time table for roasting un-stuffed, completely thawed turkeys at 350°. The times are approximate.

Guests Size of Turkey Time
8 people 12-14 lbs. 2 1/2 - 3 hours
10 people 15-16 lbs. 3 1/2 hours
12 people 18-20 lbs. 4 hours
14 people 21-22 lbs. 4 1/2 hours
16 people 24 lbs. 4 3/4 hours

So, what exactly are you getting when buying a turkey? It’s always a good idea to read the label.
It’s an even better idea to know what the label is telling you. Be sure to read the label carefully. If the label says “Fresh”, it doesn’t necessarily mean “fresh”. It just means that the turkey has been held at no less than 26° F. Frozen, of course, means 0° F and below and are favorites for graveyard shift stockboys on the PTBA - Pro Turkey-Bowlers Association. A turkey labeled “natural” means just that - no artificial anything; flavorings, colorings, moisturizing agents or otherwise. Be careful with turkeys labeled “self-basting”. They may not be “natural”. Free-range means the turkey had full access to the farmer’s front yard. Organic turkeys are the same as free-range turkeys only without the possibility of steroids, artificial growth hormones or antibiotics.

Fresh turkey is always best. If you do get a frozen turkey, get it far enough in advance for it to be able to thaw out in the refrigerator, preferably on the bottom shelf in the back. Give it about five days or so to thaw. If you don¢t have the time, let the turkey sit, fully submerged under water in your sink or bucket, changing the water every so often to keep bacteria from festering. Figure about 10 minutes per pound to thaw.

It’s best to use a quick-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, instead of relying on that little pop-up thingy. Totally unreliable.”

Suddenly there was hope. Thoughts began to swirl around her brain of Thanksgivings past. Once tied down by her unfounded limited abilities, the possibilities were … limitless. With forgiving kiss on her husband’s cheek, she set to work, checking cookbooks her mother had given her and talking to her mother long distance almost constantly. By the end of the next day she had a menu -

Honey-brined Roasted Turkey
Pan Gravy
Virginia Cured Ham
Honey Dijon Sauce
Wild Rice and Sausage Dressing
Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Pears
Roasted Parsnips, Baby Carrots and Red Potatoes in Watercress Butter
Wild Field Greens with Pumpkin Squash and Maple Cider Vinaigrette
Nantucket Cranberry Sauce
Festive Holiday Punch
Cranberry Apple Pie
Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie
New York Pumpkin Cheesecake
Buttermilk Maple Sorbet
Yankee Oatmeal Molasses Buns
Assortment of Sweet Gherkins, Baby Dill Pickles, Black and Green Olives, Pickled Whole Baby Beets

Her husband looked over the list. He began to think maybe he had created a culinary monster. Where were the candied yams with the marshmallows? Where were the plain mashed potatoes? Why did the stuffing have sausage in it and why was it called dressing? And no vanilla ice cream? What was his mother going to think? It was beginning to seem a rather dubious plan.

She told her husband she didn’t care what his mother was going to think. Either two things were going to happen - either his mother was going to hate it and she would never have to do this again, or his mother was going to love it and, heaven forbid, she was going to have to do it again next year…and the next, and the next and the next. At least until his mother died. It was his fault for bragging about her cooking skills in the first place. Like it or not, this was going to be the menu for the fateful day.

So off she set to put her plan into motion. The turkey and ham arrived with great fanfare. She thought maybe their presence would spark anxiety, but she remained surprisingly calm. yet almost excited. She got on the phone with her mother-in-law and sisters-in-law and gave out the assignments.

“No cooking,” she told them. Just buy the things on the list I gave you and get them to me tomorrow at the latest. The sooner the better.”

Everything was choreographed to precision. Things were made ahead of time and chilled. Others were prepped and organized so they could be thrown together on Thursday. An oven schedule was written and posted on the fridge. She put her husband in charge of organizing the men to set the tables.

They had borrowed a long table from the church and were planning to move furniture to accommodate it. She assured her husband that they could do it during commercials so they wouldn’t miss the Lions annual Thanksgiving Day loss, although privately she knew he cared more about the dog show after the Macy’s parade than the football game.

All was done. The day was here. The guests had arrived.

Her mother-in-law looked at the food with suspicion, but eventually she politely, for her son's sake, took a bite of the dressing, and then the parsnips, the salad, the mashed sweet potatoes and so on and so on until she had tried the last dessert. There was no sign of discord from her mother-in-law. Could this mean success? Could this mean she would be tormented every November for the rest of her life?

At the end of the day, she offered some left-overs to her mother-in-law, but her mother-in-law gently refused. “I liked it, dear. It was delicious…but, I think next year we’ll do it at my house.”

A win-win for everyone, she thought.

Honey-brined Roasted Turkey

1 19-20 pound turnkey, cleaned
4 quarts water
4 quarts cider vinegar
2 cups kosher salt
4 cups honey
6 cloves garlic, peeled and slightly smashed
2 tablespoons whole black pepper
1 sprig fresh rosemary
olive oil

Place a large new garbage bag (at least 10 gallons) in a large stock pot. Mix the liquids and spices, except the olive oil, together in the bag until salt and honey dissolve. Place the washed turkey, without the gizzards, in the bag, making sure the turkey is completely covered by the brine. Seal up the bag and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.18-24 hours is preferred.

Remove the turkey and let drain on a rack. Discard the brine. Rub a little olive oil (about 1 tablespoon per each side) on the breasts under the skin. Truss the turkey. Place the turkey, breast down, on a rack in a roasting pan and tent loosely with foil. Roast at 350°, basting every 30 minutes after the first hour, until the internal temperature in the thigh reaches about 175°-180°, about 5-6 hours.

Pan Gravy

Turkey gizzards and neck bone
2 tablespoons minced garlic
½ medium or 1 small white onion, chopped
2 quarts chicken broth
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 cup flour
¼ cup butter

This recipe can’t be made if you use a disposable foil roasting pan. Remove the turkey to a large platter and tent with foil to keep it warm. Place the roasting pan on the stove top. Add the neck bone and gizzards to the drippings and cook until brown. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onions are soft and aromatic. Pour in the chicken stock (unless you want to save last years turkey carcass to make a turkey stock…which is a whole different story) and rosemary, scraping any residue off the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil and let simmer for 10-15 minutes. Strain into a stock pot. Place some of the broth in a large bowl and add the flour and whisk well, making sure there are no balls of flour. Add this to the broth and let simmer until thick. Whisk in the butter at the last minute.

Virginia Cured Ham

1 10 pound ham
whole cloves
6 cups hot water
1 cup cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
2 bay leaves
1 cup molasses
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Preheat oven to 325°. If the ham still has it¢s skin, carefully remove the skin without removing as much fat as possible. Rinse off the ham and gently pat it dry. Score the fat crosswise in the shape of diamonds. Place one whole clove in each diamond. Place the ham in a large roasting pan with a cover or tent with foil.

Combine the water, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and bay leaves and pour over the ham. Bake for 3 1/2 hours or until the internal temperature reaches 160°. Be careful not to let your meat thermometer touch the bone. After the first hour, baste every 30 minutes with the molasses mixed with the Dijon.

Honey Dijon Sauce

2 cup sour cream
¼ cup Dijon mustard
½ cup honey

Mix all the ingredients together. Chill

Wild Rice Sausage Corn Dressing

2 cups wild rice
1/2 pound ground Italian sausage
3 medium leeks, sliced, white parts only
4 ears of corn, shucked and cut
1 tablespoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
1 12 ounce can chicken broth
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
6 cups bread, cubed and dried

Bring salted water to a boil. Cook the wild rice in the boiling water for 15 minutes on medium heat. Drain and set aside.

Cook the Italian sausage about halfway on medium heat. Add the leeks and saute until tender and sausage is done. Add the cut corn and thyme and saute for another two minutes or so. Add the chicken broth and bring just to a simmer. Add the parsley, bread cubes and cooked wild rice, mixing well. Simmer covered on medium low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Fresh Green Beans with Pumpkin Squash and Pecans

1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small (4 lbs) pumpkin, skinned and cubed
1 pound fresh green beans, trimmed and halved
2 teaspoons ground rosemary
2 teaspoons basil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped fine
1 cup chopped pecans
1/4 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

In a large heavy skillet, or wok, melt the butter together with the olive oil. Saute the cubed pumpkin on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pumpkin starts to brown and caramelize a little. Add the green beans and herbs. Saute for about 10 minutes. Add the broth and simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes or until the green beans are tender yet firm. Add the butter and salt and pepper and stir until the butter just melts.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Pears

5 pounds sweet potatoes
6 tablespoons butter or margarine
4 large Bartlett pears, peeled and diced medium
1 cup pear nectar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

You can either bake the sweet potatoes at 400° for one hour or you can peel and slice them and then steam them (not boil!!) until soft and very tender. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saute pan. Add the pears and saute until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the nectar and bring to a simmer, covered, reducing the heat to medium low stirring often, about 4-5 minutes. Let the pear mixture cool a little and then puree 3/4 the mixture.

Place the prepared sweet potatoes in a large mixing bowl. Add the remaining butter and beat on medium speed until creamy. Add in the pear mixture, brown sugar and spices and mix well.

Roasted Parsnips, Baby Carrots, Red Potatoes in Watercress Butter

1 pound parsnips, peeled, cored and cut into ½ inch cubes
½ pound baby carrots, cut in half
1 pound red potatoes, washed and cut into ½ inch cubes
¼ cup butter
One bunch watercress, chopped fine
Dash salt and pepper

In a large oven-safe pot, melt the butter. Add the parsnips, carrots and potatoes and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, add watercress, salt and pepper and cover. Put the pot in a preheated oven at 350° and bake for 25-30 minutes. Transfer toa serving dish.

Wild Field Greens with Pumpkin Squash and Maple Cider Vinaigrette

Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup (or 1/4 cup imitation plus 1 teaspoon maple extract)
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup olive oil

Mix the ingredients, except the oil, together in a blender. Slowly drizzle the oil into the mixture in the blender while blending on medium high.

Salad:
Mixed greens
1 small (2-3 pounds) pumpkin (or acorn or butternut squash)
3 fresh corn, shucked and shelled
1 pint red tear-drop tomatoes (or small cherry tomatoes), halved
1 bunch small green onions, chopped

Cut the pumpkin in half. Clean out the seeds and cut into wedges. Bring water in a steamer to a boil and steam the pumpkin wedges until tender but still firm, about 5 minutes. Chill in an ice water bath immediately. Drain well. Peel the skin off the wedges and cut the pumpkin into cubes. Mix all of the ingredients together with the greens. At time of service, add the vinaigrette and toss well.

Nantucket Cranberry Sauce

3-4 oranges, squeezed (about 1 cup)
1 cup apple cider
1 tablespoon orange zest
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1/4 cup molasses
2 packets of Knox Gelatin
1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries

Bring the cider to a simmer and dissolve the gelatin in the cider. Remove from heat. Grind up the cranberries, a little at a time, in the blender with the orange juice. Combine everything in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the mixture into a glass or plastic container and chill, covered.

Festive Holiday Punch

8 cups apple cider
8 cups cranberry juice
4 cinnamon sticks
2 red apples, cored, sliced
2 cups cranberries, crushed
3 liters lemon lime soda
ice

Mix apple and cranberry juices and cinnamon, chill for 24 hours. Fifteen minutes before serving, place apples and crushed cranberries in a punch bowl and add the juices and soda. Add Ice if necessary.

Cranberry Apple Pie

1 ready made pie crust
1 egg white
2 lbs medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and sliced
3/4 cup frozen cranberries
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon flour
1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons grated orange zest
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup old-fashioned oats
1/4 cup gingersnap crumbs
1/4 cup brown sugar, packed
4 tablespoons butter, melted

Preheat oven to 375°. Brush the entire inside of the crust with the egg white. Toss the apples and cranberries with the sugar, flour, cornstarch, orange zest and nutmeg. Spread the mixture evenly in the crust, pressing down. Mix the remaining ingredients and spread evenly over the top. Cover with foil and bake on the bottom rack for 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake for 10-15 minutes more.

Apple Butter Pumpkin Pie

1 cup pumpkin puree
1 cup apple butter
1/2 cup brown sugar. packed
1/2 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
1 9 inch unbaked pie crust

Preheat oven to 375°. Combine pumpkin, apple butter, brown sugar, and spices. Gently mix in eggs. Stir in the cream. Pour evenly into the unbaked pie crust. It would be a good idea to cover the edges of the crust with foil. Bake for 25 minutes and then remove the foil. Bake for an additional 20-25 minutes or until pie is set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

New York Pumpkin Cheesecake

3 cups graham cracker crumbs
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1/4 cup butter, melted
1 15 ounce can pumpkin
2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
7 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons rum (or 1 tsp extract)
2 teaspoons nutmeg

Preheat oven to 375°. Combine the crumbs, butter and pumpkin pie spice. Press evenly into a 9 inch springform pan. Bake for 5 minutes.

Combine the rest of the ingredients in a mixer and beat well. Pour evenly into the pan. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300° and bake for an additional 45 minutes or until the center is set. Turn off the oven but let the cake remain in the oven for about 30 minutes or so.

Buttermilk Maple Sorbet

1/4 cup pure maple syrup
2 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 cup water
1 cup sugar

Mix the ingredients together until sugar dissolves and let sit in refrigerator until cold. Process in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer¢s instructions. Place in a freezer safe plastic container and freeze for at least 24 hours before service. Keep frozen.

Yankee Oatmeal Molasses Buns

4 cups flour
1 packet or ½ teaspoon active dry yeast
½ cup old fashioned oats
1 cup milk
¼ cup butter
¼ cup molasses
1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground cloves
2 eggs

Sift two cups of the flour with the yeast. Combine the other two cups with the oats. Combine milk and butter and warm, about 110-115°, and butter melts. Combine the warm milk with the molasses, brown sugar and spices. In a mixer with the dough hook, slowly combine the four and yeast with the eggs and warm mixture. Add the rest of the flour and oats and mix until just combined. Raise the speed a little and knead for about 5 minutes until the dough is springy and smooth. Place in a large greased bowl, cover with plastic place in a warm, dry place with no draft, like on top of the stove or inside a turned-off oven. Let rise until doubled in size, about one hour. Punch the dough down. On a floured clean counter or cutting board, cut the dough into 16 equal pieces. Roll each piece into balls with the palm of your hand until smooth, Place on a greased cookie sheet about an inch apart. Cover with plastic and let rise for about 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated oven at 375° for 12 minutes.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Up To The Gills

In the crazy world of culinary arts, or more specifically, the restaurant business, marketing is everything. It seems people would rather go to a place with horrible food if it has a quirky name and a gimmick than to a place with incredible food with an ambience that is bland and ordinary . Many years ago a restaurant opened in Sandy, Utah that had the whole Wasatch Front abuzz. My family went to eat there, once. ONCE. Not a single thing about the place appealed to me, although I will admit the cliff divers were fun to watch, if you can get past the chance both you and your food will get soggy. Speaking of the food, I’d rather not. Of course, the reason the whole state was gaga over this place was it’s owner - Larry H. Miller. Nothing against the guy, really, but it seems here in Utah, if you want your business to succeed, associate it with LHM and you can’t fail, no matter how mediocre or uninspiring it is.

Of course, I’m not immune to the phenomenon. I have two restaurant ideas in the works and believe me, the hardest part is coming up with a name for the place as well as interesting names for menu items. I have the Black Rattler (named after a Rowan Atkinson character named The Black Adder) which is a fusion of various Old World cuisine with Sonoran (i.e. Arizona). Then there’s my soup kitchen (yes I am the Soup Nazi!) which I call Oliver’s Porridge Emporium. Nothing but soups and sandwiches. See? Quirky name and a gimmick.

It seems that Lemony Snicket was well aware of restaurant marketing when he wrote his Series of Unfortunate Events - The Ersatz Elevator. I couldn’t help laugh when I read about his Café Salmonella. Of course it has nothing to do with food-born illness (I hope), but I couldn’t help being reminded of a restaurant in Phoenix called La Cucaracha. That’s The Cockroach to you gringos. I can see it now. “Hey! Let’s go eat at La Cucaracha!” “What’s on the menu?” “Um, you don’t really want to know.”

Seriously, though. The gimmick behind Café Salmonella is not the bacteria, but the fish, as in poor guy’s so pink his only chance is to swim against the currents, dams and bears on the Atkins Diet for a chance at Ladies Night Out Up The River. Everything on the menu has salmon in it, and the décor is salmon pink right down to the server’s uniforms. That’s major overkill, of course, but it’s still pretty funny.

Of course, the real question is not how to cook salmon, but how to get kids to eat it. Salmon is, after all, a very potent fish. I actually prefer my salmon as the Japanese do - raw, on a ball of rice with a dollop of wasabi. If you can get past the raw part, it doesn’t taste ‘fishy’ like cooked salmon does. For amateur fish eaters I recommend something milder like halibut, sea bass or maybe even a nice ahi tuna (but not canned tuna, unless you like cat-breath).

Yes, salmon can definitely pose a problem for parents trying to get their kids to eat something besides Frank ‘n’ Beans. There’s even a whole book devoted to the lengths a child will go to avoid eating salmon casserole. Some kids would rather eat fried worms.

Here are some samples from the books for you recipe hounds -

Broiled Salmon

Broiling salmon is easy. Move the rack in the oven to the top and preheat the oven as high as it will go - to broil. Ovens have two heat sources, top and bottom so everything cooks evenly. The broiler cooks only from the top, but it gets to about 500°F. Place the salmon on a foil-lined cookie sheet or broiler pan. Drizzle a little olive oil over the top and sprinkle with a dash of salt and pepper. You could use other seasonings such as dill with slices of lemon or Old Bay® seasoning, or anything else you might be brave enough to try. The general rule of thumb is about 10 minutes per inch. Most salmon filets are 1-2 inches thick. It’s best if all the filets are the same size. Since the tail is thinner than the rest of the fish, it might be best to use a different cooking method such as steaming, poaching or baking if you are using a whole side of salmon. The salmon, as will all fish, will flake apart when poked with a fork.

Creamy Salmon Soup

This is also known as a bisque - a rich, smooth, velvety, creamy pureed soup. You can use leftover broiled salmon for this soup or you can steam it, poach it or buy it already smoked.

1 lb salmon, broiled or smoked, shredded.
1 T olive oil
½ medium white onion, sliced
1 tsp minced garlic
1 T dried dill
1 tsp Old Bay® seasoning
1 bottle clam juice
1 15 oz can vegetable broth
1 Qt heavy cream
¼ C sour cream
1 T lemon juice
1 large tomato, diced
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced.

In a large sauce pan, heat the oil and cook the onions, garlic and spices until the onions become soft and aromatic. Puree half the cooked salmon with the clam juice and vegetable stock until smooth. Strain with a fine mesh strainer and add it to the pot with the heavy cream. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the rest of the salmon, the sour cream and lemon juice and simmer for 5 more minutes. Pour into some bowls and garnish with diced tomatoes and cucumbers.

Chilled Salmon Salad

I’m not sure what Lemony Snicket had in mind when he thought up this dish. I can imagine something like tuna salad only with salmon instead, cooked of course. You just need some chopped celery and onions, a little bit of mayo and Dijon mustard, some dill and maybe a little splash of lemon juice (noticing a trend here?), and of course a dash of salt and pepper. Maybe serve it with some Boston Bib lettuce or baby mixed greens.

Salmon Casserole - How to Eat Fried Worms

This is the book that started it all. I can understand someone’s distaste for salmon. It is a strong fish. But for someone to prefer eating worms over salmon is just silly. This recipe is basically just like the salmon salad - picture tuna casserole but with salmon instead. If your mom has a good tuna casserole that you like, try that one and just substitute salmon.

½ pound Pasta, cooked, cooled
1 large can salmon, cleaned of bones and skin
1 can cream of celery or asparagus or mushroom
1 C Mozzarella cheese
½ C Parmesan cheese
½ bag French cut green beans
1 T dill
1 t lemon juice

Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl. Pour into a greased casserole dish and bake in a preheated oven at 350° for 25-30 minutes.


Salmon Spanakopita

Here is an interesting Greek dish that I think would go well with fried worms…or not. This is actually more of a ‘mock’ spanakopita. A real spanakopita has a pasty crust made from sheets of phylo pastry dough and is usually vegetarian.

1 16 oz carton cottage cheese
2 4 oz carton of feta crumbles
1 large can salmon, cleaned of bones and skin
½ of 9 oz bag of fresh spinach or 1 package frozen spinach, thawed and drained
1 T dill
1 t lemon juice
½ t pepper
6 T flour
4 eggs, lightly beaten

Mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Pour into a greased 8 x 8 casserole dish and bake in a preheated oven at 325° for 25-30 minutes.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Ice, Ice...baby

It’s summertime and the livin’ is easy. Well, if you’re a kid anyway. Of course, what would summer be without watermelon, lemonade, BBQ’s and, more importantly, for my friends in Phoenix, ice cream?

I have few memories of ice cream, probably because I ate so much of it. (Brain freeze! Yes, it does explain a lot). I do remember, though, what a treat it was when my mom got out the ice cream machine. I’m sure she made other flavors besides vanilla or strawberry, but for some reason I don’t remember her ever making chocolate, although I’m pretty sure she did. I can't see her not making chocolate ice cream. The one that I remember the most, though, was her peach ice cream. She didn’t put fresh peaches; they were always canned. But her trick was the J-ello. It made for a very peachy ice cream that is still my favorite today.

The one problem with making homemade ice cream is using the ice cream machine, or maker or whatever you want to call it. Even with an electric motor instead of the old Victorian-style hand crank, it’s still tedious, cumbersome and if you don’t know what your doing, easy to mess up. You have to get the salt to ice ratio just right. It could freeze to quickly and turn hard or not freeze at all. Not fun for a kid. But, there is another way, so easy even a child could do it.

In my research for my cookbook, several of the books I read mention ice cream. Harry Potter ate not only strawberry ice cream, but strawberry and peanut butter ice cream too. His cousin Dudley was a well known connoisseur of the Knickerbocker Glory which is nothing more than a British version of our Banana Split. The Great Brain wrote about how he and his brother would help turn the crank to make Chocolate or Pineapple ice cream. Ma Ingalls didn’t have an ice machine in that Little House on the Prairie, hand cranked or otherwise. She had to put the custard in an ice bath, cover it with a towel and stir it every 15 minutes or so. Thank goodness for the Industrial Revolution!

Making ice cream with custard is traditional. Think French Vanilla. It gets its yellow tint from the egg yolk. Otherwise it’s no different from Philadelphia style which has no eggs and is what we are all familiar with today. It’s easy to make, even for a child, but it does take practice. Maybe I’ll do a bit on custards later. Here are a few you can try that involve shaking the mixture in plastic bags.

Vanilla -

2 C Heavy Whipping Cream
2 C Half and Half
½ C Sugar
2 t Vanilla
Crushed Ice
½ C Rock Salt
1 Qt freezer bag
Gallon freezer bag

In a large bowl, combine the creams, sugar and vanilla and mix well until the sugar dissolves. Pour into a one quart zip-lock freezer bag. Secure tightly, making sure to press out any air pockets. Fill half of the gallon bag with ice and half the rock salt. Put the bag with the ice cream mix inside and surround with more ice and the remaining rock salt. Shake vigorously until the mixture starts to freeze and harden - anywhere from 5-10 minutes. If it doesn’t start to freeze after awhile, add a little more ice and rock salt. One the ice cream is ready, remove the bag and place in the freezer for a couple of hours.

To make different flavors of ice cream you can use this as a base. Just omit the vanilla and adjust the sugar.

Chocolate -

Omit the sugar and add Hershey’s chocolate syrup, more or less depending on how chocolaty you want it. You could even add chocolate chips, peanut butter chips, or mini-marshmallows and peanuts for Rocky Road.

Pineapple -

Drain 2 small cans of pineapple chunks and puree with the creams and sugar. Add 2 cups of shredded coconut for a piña colada.

Strawberry -

There are two ways to do strawberry ice cream. First, cut the stems off a pint of strawberries, cut them in half and cover with ¼ cup sugar. Let sit for about 30 minutes. Puree the strawberries and sugar with the creams and ¼ cup strawberry jam. Or, you can omit the fresh strawberries and sugar and use ½ cup strawberry preserves, but personally I think the first way would work best.

Strawberry and Peanut butter -

You might want to use a 2 quart bag for this one. Adding the peanut butter, although only a small amount, might be just a little too much. Make the strawberry ice cream using the method above. In a small bowl, mix ½ cup smooth creamy peanut butter with ½ cup heavy whipping cream. It should be thick, yet pour-able. After you pour the strawberry mixture into the bag, spoon in the peanut butter mixture, but don’t stir it. After you’ve placed the bag in the larger bag with the ice and salt, gently rock it back and forth. If you do it too vigorously, and you might mix the peanut butter in with the strawberry. If you do it gently, it should swirl. I think…I hope! This one is actually best for an electric ice cream maker where you can add in the peanut butter mixture in just before the strawberry is done.

Peach -

I’m adding this one not just because of the memories, but because of James and the Giant Peach. Even though the only food mentioned in the book is the Fizzy Lemonade his evil aunts drank, James and the other insects did eat the peach while flying away.

Omit the sugar and reduce the vanilla to ½ teaspoon. Add one 3 ounce packet of peach Jell-O, and one 14 ounce can of peach chunks, drained. Or, you can use ½ pound frozen peaches. Thaw them out and chop them coarsely in the food processor with 2 tablespoons of sugar. If you use fresh peaches, peel and pit them and chop them coarsely in the food processor.

So, there ya have it! Ice cream done simple. There are so many different flavors you can do! I once did a rosemary ice cream that required seeping the rosemary in hot cream for an hour and chilling it. The possibilities are endless!

Thursday, June 17, 2010

This time, I used real Fritos

My mother recently came home from church with the annual local cookbook with a collection of recipes from women in the neighborhood. I look forward to this not because of my love of food, but because it’s always interesting to see how others think in terms of food and cooking. I have come to understand, recently, that I am not into what you would call, ‘home-style cooking’. I know how to cook, obviously. I’ve been doing it professionally for nearly 20 years. My problem is that I am so used to restaurant cooking. This is so much different than cooking at home. While the basic techniques are the same, the equipment (how I wish I had a gas stove at home!!), the atmosphere and the frame of mind are completely different.

There are fussy kids with short attention spans to worry about. There are schedules booked to the limit, husbands who miss Mama’s cooking, and more and more wives , and people in general, who can’t cook beyond the microwave. I see it in my profession as well. I’ve worked with cooks, (by no means do I ever call them chefs) who have graduated from culinary school that not only refuse to cook, claiming “I don’t know how”, but when they do, they can’t even do simple tasks like boiling potatoes.

I do have to deal with fussy eaters that come through my restaurant. Everyone has their own opinion. I worked at one place where it seemed every regular customer was a friend of the owner and all I heard was, “Oh, my Aunt So and So makes it this way. It’s to die for! You should do it this way” I don’t care how good your Aunt’s cooking is, that is insulting to a chef. That’s like telling Leonardo Da Vinci, “My cousin Michelangelo paints such beautiful cherubs. You should paint like he does.” Look, If you miss your Aunt’s cooking so much, go eat at her house.

But seriously. Back to this local cookbook. It is very interesting to see the local tastes and styles. There were some interesting things in there. A couple of which I might try. That’s a big emphasis on ‘might’. It’s not that none of the recipes where any good. Obviously they are or there would have been no reason to turn them in to be published. It’s just that everything was so…family. Pedestrian is the word I tend to use.

Recently I went looking for a recipe to submit to a contest dealing in ‘lost recipes’ - recipes that one might consider ‘heirlooms’ and have been handed down several generations. I found one of my Grandmother Laverne’s that I actually remembered fondly from our Sunday dinners. It’s your basic broccoli and cheese casserole. I balked at one ingredient - Cheese Whiz. My initial reaction was, “You’ve got to be kidding me!” I, who have worked with the likes of Wolfgang Puck would never even consider buying Cheese Whiz! And yet there it was. She put Velveeta in her famous meatloaf as well. How would I live that down?

Am I a food snob? I know my distaste for certain things is almost infamous among my family and closest friends (Ketchup - The Devil’s Blood!). I’ve even had a of couple friends say they’d invite me over for dinner but I intimidate them. My answer is emphatically, ‘Why?’. There’s nothing wrong with a simple Mac ‘n Cheese followed by some jell-o. But there’s something to be said for wanting to experience the finer things in life, even if it’s just to say you have.

The next time you make Mac ‘n Cheese, instead of making it from a box, learn to make a nice cheese sauce, and don’t just use American or cheddar cheese. How about a five-cheese mix, like Cheddar, mozzarella, parmesan, gouda and fontina. It could get expensive, yes, but the idea is not to eat like this all the time, just once in awhile. And Mac 'n Cheese like that would be a special treat. I’ve said it before on this blog and I will continue to say it again…expand your palette! There is no such thing as weird unless you go to some parts of Indo-china and eat roasted scorpions on a stick. I mean, I do have my limits.

I recently got a co-worker known for his fussy palette to try frog legs. His philosophy is Twinkies are good for you because they taste good. Fish is bad for you because it tastes yucky. I tried to make a bet with him that I could make something with fish in it and he’ll like it. If I won, he would have to tell the world he liked fish. If I lost, I’d never bug him about it again. He declined without hesitation. Either his fear of fish was too strong or perhaps deep down he knew I’d win. I always win. I haven’t lost yet. Case in point: the frog legs. How did I do it? Despite my own, albeit slight, trepidations, I ate some too. It’s kind of like showing your baby that strained peas is not so bad by showing a willingness to eat them too.

So, I ask again, am I a food snob? So I hate ketchup. Big deal. While I can’t stand the taste or smell of it, I don’t think it’s a sin to put it on your hamburger or a hot dog. But if I’m paying $30 for a filet mignon or $5-$6 a pound for a nice rib-eye steak for the 4th of July, I’m not going to drown it in ketchup. How about a nice Sauce Diane? Au Poirve? Or just a simple au jus with horseradish. Putting ketchup on a nice steak makes me think of Joy Turner from “My Name is Earl” and her ‘famous Frito Pie…only this time, I used real Fritos.” Bon Apetit.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Mi Salsa es tu Salsa Part II

A Series of Unfortunate Events. Sounds like my love life. Ha! No, just kidding. A good series of books (I have them all), even if the ending was disappointing. I mean, that’s it? No “happy ever after”? I mean, so they don’t have to worry about Count Olaf anymore. Big deal. Seriously, they had a better chance of getting off that island than Gilligan.

But the food! The only book that comes even close to peeking my culinary curiosity is Harry Potter and even that’s a stretch. J.K. Rowling’s use of food in her books is incredible (and I’ll happily admit HP is what got me started on this little venture) even if 90% of what she writes about is true English food.

Lemon Snicket, on the other hand, could easily have been a chef. Who else would come up with an entire restaurant based on salmon and call it Café Salmonella. Kind of reminds me of a Mexican restaurant in Phoenix (N. 7th Ave, I think?) called La Cucaracha (The Cockroach).

So, the other day my sister asked me about authentic enchilada sauce. Luckily for me, Lemony Snicket mentioned just the same thing! Well, sort of. While the kids where in the Vile Village, a man named Hector took care of them and made them a dinner of enchiladas like his mom had made for him.

Being from Arizona, I love a good enchilada. I hate bad ones, but that goes without saying…even though I just did. My mom made enchiladas with a great creamy sauce with green chilies. Unfortunately, she never wrote down the recipe and changes it every time she makes it depending on what she has on hand and that makes it difficult to include it, but I’ll do my best!

I’ve also included a couple of other traditional sauces I think you should try. The Red Chili Sauce (Salsa Roja), is the spiciest. (Don't believe those who think green is hotter!!!) If you don’t want to take the time to cook the chicken and roll the enchiladas, you can buy those frozen chicken taquitos, Just be sure to thaw them out first. I’m dreaming of Jordan’s on Central Ave again (even though it’s closed)!

Cooking the Chicken -
3 lbs chicken
2 Bay leaves
10 whole peppercorns

Put everything in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring the water to a boil then reduce the heat a little and let it simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Pull the chicken out of the water, put it on a large plate, and let it cool. The chicken should be tender and break apart easily with a fork. Shred it into thin pieces. Save the water in the pot.

In a large bowl, mix the chicken together with:

1 bunch green onions, chopped - white and green parts together
1 4 oz can chopped olives or 1 6 oz can whole olives, chopped

Roll this mixture into corn tortillas with a sprinkle of cheese and place then in a casserole dish. Cover with the sauce of your choice and more cheese. Bake, covered with foil, at 325° F for 25-30 minutes.

Creamy Enchilada Sauce -
2 cans cream of chicken soup
1 soup can of milk
2 4 oz cans diced green chilies
2 tablespoons sour cream

Salsa Verde (Green Chili Sauce) -

Before we start there are several things you should know. It’s best to use the canned green chilies. Roasting chilies involves rubbing them with oil, putting them on a hot grill until completely black, putting them in a bowl and covering with plastic to let them steam in their own heat for an hour or two and then rubbing off the burnt skin. Way too much effort even for adults. However, if you want to go through all that trouble, the taste is totally worth it. Also, using canned tomatillos is totally acceptable because blanching them involves peeling off the paper-like skin, cooking them in hot boiling salted water for two minutes and immediately cooling them in an ice water bath. Again, if you want to do that it is totally worth the effort. If you have a tomato garden and you have some nice green tomatoes, those work just fine instead of tomatillos. They are not related in any way (even though they look the same), but the flavors are very similar. You don’t even have to blanch them. Finally, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of the Poblano chilies because they aren’t all that hot. At least not to me! If you want some heat, add a jalapeño or two. If you are feeling brave, you don’t have to clean the seeds out of that one either. Now, let’s get started!

1 T Olive Oil
1 Small Onion, chopped
2 fresh Poblano chilies, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh minced garlic
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon dried oregano
1 8oz can green chilies or 10 - 12 roasted fresh Anaheim chilies
1 7 oz can tomatillos or ½ lb fresh tomatillos cleaned, blanched and cut in quarters
1 14 oz can chicken or vegetable broth
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped fine
1 T lime juice
salt and pepper

In a medium-sized sauce pan, heat the olive oil just a little. Sauté the onions, Poblanos, garlic, cumin and oregano until the onions get soft and the garlic and spices start to sweat. Put this mixture in a food processor with the roasted chilies, tomatillos and half of the broth and blend until smooth. Put all this back into the same sauce pan with the rest of the broth and bring the sauce to a simmer. Let the sauce cook for about five minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the cilantro, lime juice and salt and pepper. Taste it and add a little more salt and pepper if needed.


Salsa Roja (Red Chili Sauce) -

8-10 dried large red chilies (or ½ C red chili powder)
2 cups boiling water
1 T olive oil
1 T flour
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1 8 oz can (1 cup) tomato sauce - optional
Dash of salt

In a bowl, combine the dried chilies and boiling water. After the water has cooled and the chilies are nice and soft, pull the stems off and then puree the chilies with the water. In a saucepan, warm up the olive oil a little. If the oil is too hot, you’ll burn the spices. Add the cumin and oregano and cook, stirring constantly, for a couple of minutes until the spices start to sweat. Add the flour and keep stirring until mixed well and you have a nice paste. Add the pureed chilies (and tomato sauce, if you like) and stir until the paste is dissolved. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add a little salt and taste to make sure it‘s right. If you use chili powder, there’s no need to puree anything.